Sounds like FRAPPING. It's a term used to describe the crazy play of puppies when they get all worked up. It's considered perfectly normal in puppies and they may do it several times a day for like 5 minutes a time. At my house, even my 5 and 6 year olds still do it. NORMAL.

Pinning dogs is a bad idea. There were books and trainers in the 70's that suggested it, but it has fallen very out of favor. And in large breed dogs, it's just plain dangerous. I wouldn't do it anymore.

Can you make sure that you have some really rough and tumble play sessions during the day? This may help prevent some of the frapping or it will let you direct it when it happens. You don't have to play rough, but you should play FUN! Quick retrieves, some controlled tugging, fast hand-touches, recalls back and forth between two people for treats, whatever works for you. I like tug and fetch and wresting, but that's just me.

My guess is that you are seeing play behavior. Find a way that you are comfortable with to make you a ton of fun. It will pay dividends in your training journey!

Good luck! Congratulations on a new pup!

 

First off, dominance theory with dogs isn't true. It has been debunked many, many times. Dogs really don't think we are other dogs and they aren't trying to rule us. Other people have more informative links for this.

Secondly, stopping corrections will help you, actually. You need to direct her behavior into something positive. Show her what you want her doing instead. For example, when you shout NO!, she has no clue what she's supposed to be actually doing. If she's doing something she shouldn't get up, find a toy to direct her attention with and get her focused on that. Ignoring bad issues, or redirecting them is much more successful than feeding into them. Negative attention (I.E, corrections, are still attention) and you're feeding into the issue.

When she starts these frenzys, try redirecting her attention. Get a toy, and try and play. If she continues to bite at your clothes, get up and leave the room for like a minute. You don't wanna leave for too long or else she will forget why you left. If you get up and leave the room and physically separate yourself from her with a door or something she will learn that acting like that makes her lose her people. You can try other methods before this, such as do a training session with treats, try and play with a toy, stuff like that.

Alpha rolling is a bad thing to do on dogs. Dogs only do this to other dogs when they intend to kill them, so imagine how you're making your puppy feel. It will also cause her to most likely lash out at you one day because she feels like you're going to physically attack her (which, to her, you are). You really don't need to stare down your dog either, this is bad to do, because you want her to actually learn to look at you. The "look at you" behavior helps her to learn to watch you, so she knows what to do. If you're always making her look away to be "submissive" you're going to ruin a very good technique.

When it comes to exercise, how much is she getting every day? What type of exercise does she do? Tired dogs are good dogs.

I hope this advice helps you. More people will be along with helpful links that explain how the alpha theory is just wrong, and things like that. Stick around the forum; there's so much to learn. =]

 

Please stop trying to dominate your dog. It's been scientifically proven that dogs do not work by a system of dominance. It's just plain untrue.
By trying to "dominate" and "correct", you're only going to create more problems.

This "frenzy" sounds like the zoomies. The dog is having fun.
Try redirecting this craziness onto a toy, or something else appropriate. If it gets too much, leave the room until the pup calms down.

 

First thanks so much I am going to go google frapping right after I respond. No more pinning got it. Quick question the reason I pinned her the first time was because when we were on a walk where there is a narrow strech of road (which is also on blind hill) before we can access the neighborhood area that is more condusive for a walk (dead end not much traffic, etc) when she started there was not a car coming during the frenzy however in the middle a car came barrelling down the hill. Should this happen again what would be a good alternative that would keep both of us from being injured? on the occasion I mentioned I was bleeding from about 8 different places- my fear was what if she gets me in the right place and I loose my grip of the leash for even a second? There is no other way to get to a safe walking area where we live than to pass through the narrow stretch.
Next controlled tugging we do with her rope. She likes that. Playing fetch with her is comedy. Most of the time she runs over to what ever we have thrown sniffs it and comes running back looking very proud of herself tail just wagging away LOL. We do wrestle a bit and play with her toys just not super rough. What I try to think would this be ok if she was 130 instead of 30.What are fast hand touches?
@nuclear glitter- excercise mental 10-15 minutes 2-3 times a day- exercise physical it varies based on her. We have 7+ acres some pasture, some wooded, some yard. The walks through the wooded area are shorter because the terrain is rough and she gets tired more quickly than walking on sidewalk/grass in a neighborhood. In the field she likes to run (in bursts of course) so she again tires more quickly. I would say 10-15 in the field/woods and 15 to 20 in the neighborhood multiple times daily. You can kinda of tell when she wants to go outside to potty and when she is ready to go outside to walk and play. When she just wants to potty she walks into the grass does her business heads for the door and resumes her naps (which are numerous) she is current snoring at my feet.
As for the testing I mentioned it was done once (we don't do it) for evaluation purposes I guess (just repeating the info I was given) and not by our trainer. With the NO! we have been using it like stop. If I am in the kitchen preparing dinner and she in the living room and she is chewing a cord for instance... I say No and bring her a toy to replace the cord. If I say no to her - she stops (chewing the cord, trying to eat the coffee table, etc) and looks my direction at which time I am generally heading toward her with a substitute. Is this the correct way to use the word or is there a better way? Last question you mentioned walking in the other room. She slams herself into the baby gates (in turn knocking them down) or into the doors we are behind? I am worried she could injure herself. Would you suggest using the water bottle or still continuing to leave the room? **Note the slamming into things is only during the frapping/frenzy thing under normal circumstances if we left the room she just whines at the gate or door.
Thanks again for the info. I going to go to more research on the forum and will wait for training to begin in a week or so YEAH!. She is awesome! I just don't want her to pay for my shortcomings.

 

I want my dogs to stare into my eyes. It's actually the first thing I teach them. I hold a treat up, next to my head. The dog will of course stare at the treat. If the dog glances at me and makes eye contact, even for a second, I give the dog the treat as fast as I can. Dogs learn VERY quickly that they should look to me for a treat. After that, I start building up duration, to the point where I can hold a treat up at arm's length and the dog will look at me for a good 20 seconds or more instead of at the treat, even if I move the treat around. Once a dog is at this stage, I find they tend to look at me for anything they want. It helps build an association -- good things happen when my dog pays attention to me.

I use "no" the same way you do (I actually usually say "hey!") -- it's an interrupter. I say it to make the dog stop whatever it's doing, and then I tell the dog what I want it to do instead.

I agree with completely leaving the room/putting a door between you when she goes nuts. She has to learn that when she is acting inappropriately, all fun stops. Even negative attention is good attention to a dog. I doubt she will hurt herself throwing herself against the door.

Anyway, some links about dominance and stuff, if you are interested:

De-Bunking the "Alpha Dog" Theory
Misconceptions of the Mythical Alpha Dog
AVSAB Position Statement on the Use of Dominance Theory in Behavior Modification of Animals
Wolf Expert L. David Mech's site

 

Ditto to what the others have said.

First, this is COMPLETELY NORMAL PUPPY BEHAVIOR. Training classes are great, but I really don't think you need to be calling in the behaviorists at this point. My pup used to do this all the time and still goes through periods of biting hands when he gets really worked up. Read "The Bite Stops Here" sticky. You need to be ignoring this behavior and walking away, not pinning your puppy. She's just trying to play with you and getting way too worked up - she will learn how to be gentle if you are patient and stop punishing her.

Second, dominance doesn't exist. The whole theory has been scientifically debunked and using dominance techniques is more likely to damage your relationship and trust with your puppy than help her. Your puppy is not trying to take over the world or dominate you, trust us. Like others said, I specifically teach my dog to stare into my eyes.

 

Two notes:
1. Frapping and zoomies are two words for the same behavior.
2. When she gets 'tired' is she hot and panting, or fatigued. Puppies may get tired, but as they age, they become athletes that can go forever... until they get too hot. My dog can play chase for about an hour when the temperature is 40 degrees, but won't play when the temperature is 90 degrees... You may discover a similar tendency as the weather gets cooler....

 

Never heard it called frapping! We always call it zoomies. The only dog we have that does it regularly is our Pit Bull. He de-blankets our bed and tips over our couch on a daily basis. And it's the most adorable thing in the world when he starts howling while doing it. XD But he learned long ago that mouthing and jumping on us in unacceptable, so as long as he keeps that mindset, we're all good.

 

First thanks so much I am going to go google frapping right after I respond. No more pinning got it. Quick question the reason I pinned her the first time was because when we were on a walk where there is a narrow strech of road (which is also on blind hill) before we can access the neighborhood area that is more condusive for a walk (dead end not much traffic, etc) when she started there was not a car coming during the frenzy however in the middle a car came barrelling down the hill. Should this happen again what would be a good alternative that would keep both of us from being injured?

A leash. Put her on a leash.

 

From the same post you're quoting:

my fear was what if she gets me in the right place and I loose my grip of the leash for even a second? There is no other way to get to a safe walking area where we live than to pass through the narrow stretch.

She's on a leash. She's just losing it and the OP is afraid she's going to lose her grip when the dog's biting and jumping that hard.