You set up as many "tests" as possible with your dog on a long line. You make turning and coming to you a high-speed and exciting event. You make the response as close to instinctive as possible. And you never stop proofing and practicing. There are no short-cuts to be taken. Some dogs will never get there, others will get there with less difficulty.

I only have one that I trust.

 

I have Susan Garrett's guide to a foolproof recall if you want it. I'm pretty sure its supposed to be payed for so I won't post it publicly (I feel like thats against DF guidelines?) But I'd be happy to send it to you if you want.

 

I just try to make Come the most rewarding thing a dog can do. Like, EXCESSIVELY so. Nowadays I can reward normally or just use a high value treat. But in the past, I've literally let Soro eat out of a can of tuna just for coming once. Things like that, that I would never care to do or carry with me otherwise. But you can bet the dog remembers it. If taping raw liver to my chest is what it takes, it's what I'll do (haven't tried that yet).

All things said, I think Soro's recall is very good, but not foolproof.

 

If taping raw liver to my chest is what it takes, it's what I'll do (haven't tried that yet).

I haven't gone that far...yet...but I'll keep that in mind...

I'm sure there's some reason I'll need to do to teach Wally something someday.

 

Are you familiar with Susan Garrett's online Recallers course? It's about to start, only held once a year, and gives you 5 new recall games fr 7-8 weeks. I did it last year, and though it was brilliant, and would recommend it to anyone who wants to work on their recall, impulse control, and/or just have some fun and learn loads of new things.

 

What were some of the games?

 

Oops, that was supposed to be 5 new recall games PER WEEK for 7-8 weeks.

Can't post too many details about it, as there are rules about that for people who do the course, but there's a lot of impulse control mixed in with the recall games, such as recalls past food bowls or favourite toys. There's a pushback recall (kinda like a restrained recall but you don't need a helper), several variations of hide n seek. It's also about creating a lot of value for the dog to want to be with you, so there's a variation of heeling, but more agility oriented, and it's not actually about heeling so much as making the dog think that being close to you is awesome. Lots of games based around that.

You can do the course with dogs who won't play and are mostly food oriented, but last year a lot of the dogs became more playful during the course. It also discusses how to transfer value from something the dog loves into something you can use as a training reward, working through arousal, how to deal with disobedience, how to teach a dog that he HAS to do something even when he doesn't want to. But it's all reward based, not corrections or anything like that.

It was really good last year, and this year apparently there are several new games. Last year people who did the course also got free access to a 4 week shaping course. There's so much information, and throughout the course you have access to chat with other people who are doing the course, and SG and her helpers get on there too and answer questions.

It's awesome

 

Is it horribly expensive? You've sold me on it so long as it's not $5,000 or something!

 

No, not that bad They haven't revealed the price or start date yet, they're just warming up to it with a 3 part webinar. Last year it was around $400 Canadian.

 

It also depends on what is the primary motivating factor for your dog... for ex, for my extremely high prey drive dog there is NO fool proof come-- chase is her main drive, although she is somewhat neurotic and d/t her immature Rapprochement response, she MUST return to me... in about 5-10 mins or so, so I never really lose her. My Berner however is Crazy food motivated and he ALWAYS comes he will recall off anything (pretty much) because my COme always means Mommy(he LOVES me), and Food (sometimes Major high value like a WHOLE hot dog, or dried liver, or Jerky, but even just dog food sample we get for free from the petstore or... a carrot...)....

 

Right now it is tennis balls at the dog park. We've proofed almost every other distraction there, but I just cannot call him off of someone elses thrown tennis ball.

 

Another way to do what lil_fuzzy mentioned if you have a good no-reward marker or interrupter is to use that if the dog breaks for the thrown object without receiving the cue (I use "get it" as well for now). That's what I did with Wally since he and I work/train in markers a lot (read: 95%) of times.

The Doggie Zen might be an idea as well. Like the method lil_fuzzy mentioned, this is usually for food, but applies to anything attractive, imo. Put the ball near both you and your dog. If your dog goes after the ball, cover/block it with your hand and offer no interaction. If the dog does NOT go after the ball, give your cue and reward when the dog gets the object.

This presents a clear difference in reaction to the dog so the dog starts to learn what's going to get him/her the fun and the toy.

As your dog masters the concept, start working with more distance and time the dog has to wait. I did it like this with Wally: first, more distance between me and the object (so Wally didn't think it applies only if I'm hovering over the object), then more wait time (Wally had to wait for gradually increasing time before the "get it"). Next, I did more progressively greater distance from both of us (getting closer to the real deal in a play/retrieve situation), and then more wait time.

Speaking of retrieve, teaching a formal retrieve might also work. This was the approach I took with Wally as well in addition to using markers (markers gave him feedback and the overall task was to do a formal retrieve).