dog ran to end of tie out, then flipped over when he yanked

I would never have a dog on a tie out in a collar he needs a harness.

My dog has done something similar, LOL. We had to put him on a tie-out cord b/c he learned how to climb the fence and the first day on it he pulled a number like that and rolled himself. Hasn't happened since, though he's not on it very often.

I've seen waaay too many dogs come into our neurosurgery service because they did exactly what has been described here. They run after a bird, squirrel, rabbit, whatever... and end up causing damage to their spinal cord - some have never fully recovered. IMO it is very negligent to leave a tie out if it's connected to a collar.

How long was the tether? I, personally, wouldn’t give over 10ft of chain/cable. 10ft of cable with 360 degree access is about 314 square feet of area for the dog. (I think? My math skills haven’t been polished up in awhile)

I’ve never had an accident while training our dogs to the chain or keeping the dogs outside on the chain. The key is training your dog to the tether and the dog knowing the boundaries and not having anything for the dog to catch themselves on. In the beginning we use flags or cones to show a boundary for the dogs until they understand.

I would never use a harness, I wouldn’t feel safe with my dogs in a harness. I just picture my dogs contorting themselves out of the harness and going over/under our fence to kill the neighbor’s cats/dogs. Probably not a problem for everyone, but one of my greatest fears is our dogs getting loose and attacking small animals or each other.

I'd say it's no big deal that it happened once, but get a harness for the next time

I would say leave the collar. He learned that it didn't work the first time (and it probably hurt too) so I doubt he will try it again.
After a while he will get used to the tie out and will know how to handle it properly.

ETA: Harnesses IMO are too easy to slip out of. Unless you have a calm dog which doesn't have a strong desire to run and chase after things. I have never ever felt comfortable using a harnesses on my dogs to tie them out with. But thats just me.

A properly chosen and fitted harness is still safer than a collar, even if the dog does manage to somehow escape the harness. The potential for spinal injury, choking and strangulation are higher than the chance the pup might slip his harness and get loose.
As for tie outs. IMO they should be used very carefully and that the dogs should not be left out on them for extended periods of time (sled dogs exempt from pet dogs). In some states chaining or tethering your dog is illegal and many frustrated/aggressive dogs are born out of being tied out without proper socialization, exercise and training. It can create barrier frustration.

The point of a tether/tie-out/chain set-up is to contain the animal. So putting a dog in a harness that he can escape and on a tether is like having a dog that can climb a kennel fence and not putting a top on it. What’s even the point?

IMO, the risk of a dog getting off his chain and escaping to get hit by a car, lost in the woods, attack another domestic animal, or be attacked by another animal (including humans) is higher than the risk of a proper chain set-up.

Want to minimalize your risk of strangulation/choking, use a proper collar without having anything the dog can get hung up in the tethering area.
Want to minimalize your risk of spinal injury, use a shorter tether. A dog on a 25ft tether has, at most, 50ft to pick up speed and then hit the end of a chain. A dog on a 10ft tether has, at most, 20ft to pick up speed and then hit the end of a chain. IMO using a thicker collar also helps spread the shock of an impact over a greater area of the neck, no idea if this is true just my opinion.

I’m glad I still live in a county that allows me the right to choose how to best and safely contain my own animals. Many frustrated/aggressive dogs are born out of owner negligence. Dog runs and kennels can create barrier frustration as well.

Thanks for the responses. We exercise him quite a bit, and gets lots of love and attention. We're not using the tie-out as an alternative to walking and running the dog. But, sometimes it's nice to sit and read outside, and not have to fuss over the dog.

Any tricks to teach a dog not to run to the end of a leash? I like the cone idea.

Not sure about others but I know quite a few dogs who can really get the wheels turning in less than 20 ft. To each his own I guess - at least everyone who reads this topic can't claim ignorance if they come home to find a disaster on the end of a tether.

dogclass said:

Hi,
rescue dog (1 year old).

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Thanks so much for choosing rescue

Should I be concerned?

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It's great that you ask that question. I think it's best to go ahead and take him to the vet. I have a dog who is very stoic. It's really hard to tell when he is in pain. Also, if you have injured yourself, you might remember that sometimes the pain sets in 1 or 2 days later. Even if his neck isn't scratched or scraped, he could have gotten some type of muscular injury. It's much better to be safe than sorry. If money is an issue, click http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2011/03/things-that-are-less-important-than.html

Maggie Girl said:

My dog has done something similar, LOL. .

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This makes me very sad. A dog yanking himself by the neck is nothing to LOL about. It's really had to watch. And like Mr V said. Some dogs sustained injuries so severe that they never recover.

Please see my video below for safe outdoor pets. Info for jumpers starts at about the 2:50 time mark

dogclass said:

Any tricks to teach a dog not to run to the end of a leash? I like the cone idea.

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Yes, great idea to try to prevent this in the future. Even if he wasn't hurt this time, continuous yanking like that will certainly cause major damage.
You can perimeter or barrier train you dog. It will take some time so in the meantime you will have to manage the behavior be keeping an eagle eye out - not only on your dog but you have to be on the lookout for any animals that will get your dog going. You probably will NOT be able to read since you have to vigilant

Be careful about finding stuff on the internet about perimeter training. A lot of it is aversive and can hurt your relationship with your dog.

See below for info on perimeter training:

I did found this for keeping dogs out of the pool. http://www.ehow.com/how_5982062_train-dogs-not-go-pools.html

I believe it could be extrapolated to any other area like a fence or the edge of unfenced yard or the end of your dog's chain.
You could post some stakes a couple of feet back from the end of his chain just as a reference point for training.
Walk your dog up to the stakes and walk the perimeter using body blocking to keep the dog away from the stakes and reward generously when the dog complies. Do this a few times a day and keep the sessions short - 10 to 15 minutes at most.

The main thing about body blocking is that is should be very subtle and as soon as the dog responds to the body block, the human should back off. Otherwise it could seem like you are threatening your dog.

Author, Behavorist Patricia McConnell has some excellent insight on managing space using body blocking- a great non-aversive way to gain compliance. http://www.theotherendoftheleash.com/teach-stay-with-body-blocks

More on perimeter training:
http://www.helium.com/items/1485164-how-to-train-a-dog-to-stay-in-an-unfenced-yard

http://books.google.com/books?id=j7...ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CEoQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=perimeter train your dog&f=false

Much easier than perimeter training would be a safe fence for your dog. If the cost is prohibitive, you can get the dog a decent kennel run for less than 200 dollars - that would be sufficient if you just want it for brief outdoor times. You could even sit inside the kennel with him. And you could put a top on it if he is a jumper.

If your dog isn't much of a jumper, you could just put together some light weight corralling or exercise pens. See the video below. I tied together 3 or 4 pens for some small dogs to play in.


I don't know if you have your own yard or if you are in an apartment or something. The play pens are lightweight and can be easily set up and taken down. I have used them at a public park down the street from my house.

If you live with an escape artist, see this link for info: https://docs.google.com/a/stubbypuddin.com/View?id=ddtbr7bw_783f77z5sc3

Also, I just posted this video in this thread - safe outdoor pets: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF6riFzuLqE
Here is video on redundant fencing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxH9ILoVo7o

If money is an issue for any of the above, see: http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2011/03/things-that-are-less-important-than.html

Want to minimalize your risk of strangulation/choking, use a proper collar without having anything the dog can get hung up in the tethering area.
Want to minimalize your risk of spinal injury, use a shorter tether. A dog on a 25ft tether has, at most, 50ft to pick up speed and then hit the end of a chain. A dog on a 10ft tether has, at most, 20ft to pick up speed and then hit the end of a chain. IMO using a thicker collar also helps spread the shock of an impact over a greater area of the neck, no idea if this is true just my opinion.

I’m glad I still live in a county that allows me the right to choose how to best and safely contain my own animals. Many frustrated/aggressive dogs are born out of owner negligence. Dog runs and kennels can create barrier frustration as well.

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I say DF needs a 'Like' button......

yea no kiddin! I would have given my bro a smack upside his head if I'd known he was doing that. But, you know what they say about hindsight...