Puppy Forum and Dog Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,135 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In another thread, Spicy1 said this

DA may not be as big of a problem as possible fighting ability. A dog doesn't need to be an aggressor to end up in a fight but a dog social dog who gets in a fight may go full throttle. It can be tragic if the owner panics and doesn't know what to do.
This got me thinking, am I prepared in the event that I have a dog fight happen? I had some issues with my last rescue between Gabi and Roe. I have to admit, I was over my head and only 6 months into dog ownership. I panicked the first time (not prepared) and the second time I got right in the middle to break it up. Not the smartest idea...Roe put her mouth on me (in the middle of the fight she inhibited her bite on me). She immediately looked at me with fear in her eyes, knowing she just bit mama...and that was enough distraction to stop the fight. I was also battling keeping Mac out of it...who was play bowing on the outskirts. it was a mess.

Not that I'm well experienced now, but I know my dogs better for sure and have more ability to recognize and manage situations that I could potentially cause issue.

I don't know that I'm prepared in the event of a real fight. I would like to be.

My only defense now would be the water hose, as I've seen it be a distraction to get the dogs apart. I was thinking perhaps I should have some emergency tie outs in the yard so I could atleast remove one dog at a time. Any other suggestions? Wheel barrel method?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,226 Posts
For your own dogs or if a random dog attacks yours?
This is going to be a bad idea from me, but if I owned two dogs that were obedient, and I know them very well... I might impulsively grab both their collars and try to keep them apart, or just throw myself in the middle or something. Then again, that's a lot of talk coming from me because I've only ever had my current dog. But in the only time he ever broke skin (another dog came up to him, they sniffed, he reacted, or the other dog did.... it was too fast for me to tell), I pulled him out by his collar and for a microsecond it looked like he was going to redirect on me, but he teeth touched my hand (like looking sideways with a snarling face, did not bite down) and he stopped. But this is only because I know my dog and even then I was taking a risk. For the record, the other dog got one scratch on his lip that didn't even bleed, glad both dogs were okay.

I think a better/safer idea would be to use a deterrent, like pepper spray, or a hose like you mentioned. Wheel barrow might not work because the dog that you can't grab might not stop and do a lot of damage to the dog you are holding.

Otherwise, I know this goes against what you're looking for, which is advise for an emergency situation, but prevention is still key.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,277 Posts
If you know which one will stop on a verbal command, then grab the other one and get it under control. Use a door or gate to separate them physically - drag one dog through the door and shut it between the two if you can. Or secure one dog and pull the other away.

Depends on the situation and the dogs of course. Sometimes the shock factor works, sometimes it makes it worse. The main thing is to keep calm and not go in screaming and kicking at the fighting dogs as that usually makes them worse. And be prepared to get nailed if you stick your hand in the wrong place at the wrong time - seek medical help if it looks bad.

Lana
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
With practice(and I hope you're not getting a lot) you can begin to tell which fights call for a loud "HEY!", water from the hose, wheel barrow, or the other options.

I haven't had to wheel barrow any work dogs in quite some time. But you need to be able to spot the aggressor. If you single out the wrong dog, you're basically holding him to be the other dog's chew toy(not unlike the way my roommate was holding me back while our "friend" broke my nose). Wheel barrow which ever dog you can get into some kind of enclosure such as back in the house, the bathroom, in a kennel, etc. A physical barrier will allow you to handle the other dog(s).

Group fights are harder. They escalate faster because everybody wants to join the winning team.

If I remember correctly, you now have a pibble pup. Just in case, familiarize yourself with the use of a break stick.

Do NOT, do NOT, do NOT stick your hands, arms, legs in the middle of a fight. Roe caught herself the first time. You were lucky.
This is how I got my first bite. Two lovely punctures when I was 14-ish and the scars are still there.
My old supervisor was all about shoving something between the dogs like pooper scoopers, a chair, a crate, etc. Then I got to watch her attempt to break up a fight. Suffice it to say that she stopped pestering me about doing it her way after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,135 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
For your own dogs or if a random dog attacks yours?
i guess the question was more regarding if a fight was to break out with TinTin and Mac. TinTin is maturing (he's not quite 5 months now), but I need to be prepared really until he is 2 years of age to get a real handle on his temperment and how he is going to mesh with the pack. I will ALWAYS keep him crated while I'm away, and the dogs are always supervised during play. So far, play has been good and Mac has been keeping his excitement level down...which I am very pleased. Roe doesn't really engage in too much play, except for an occassional game of chase with Mac. But, it only takes a moment for things to get heated and out of the 'play' mode.

And, from my previous experience, the two time I had issues was primarily with excitement levels. Mac has some re-direction issues which typically happens when a stranger or animal (deer, cat, possum..stuff like that) is on the property (rushing the window to bark or if they are in the backyard behind the fence). This event can sound horrible, although they have never escalated it much further than some horrific noises and its almost like a 'show'. I would rather tintin not learn this behavior and to learn to stay away from it...as this is when the issue could arise. I guess a better option would be to train mac and roe out of it.

I want to be prepared.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
i would suggest you to buy a break stick (parting stick) and learn how to use it well :) if one dog does not want to let go, pulling them apart can do alot of damage to both dogs involved. so you have to make the dog let go with a break stick then pull away. a hose could work for some dogs but many wont even care, it would be like cooling them off while they are sweating lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,135 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
With practice(and I hope you're not getting a lot) you can begin to tell which fights call for a loud "HEY!", water from the hose, wheel barrow, or the other options.
Nope, not getting any practice. just the occassional 'hey' when mac they are guarding the house and being noisy...and when Mac is doing his re-direction onto Roe. Roe handles him well, by calming signals and not reacting. He doesn't bite..just makes a lot of noise.

She's also learned to rotate herself at night, which seemed to be a trigger for Mac on our last potty break before bed. She won't go out with him at night anymore, she waits until he's done..then she goes out. Smart girl. When it first started happening, I would take Mac out on a leash until he calmed...and he kind of quit doing it. Now, she just doesn't want to deal and just just stopped going out with him. I followed suit and would bring him in..and then she'd go right out. it is interesting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
While not always practical i knew a judge at a show where two dogs go into it and she simply lifted one of the dogs tails and inserted her thumb into the dogs anus. While not practical, sanitary, or a good idea i think i found that humerus for a long time there after.

If my dog gets attacked by a random dog personally i'll have no problem kicking the other dog in the head, stabbing it, or if i'm carrying shooting it. I dont have the same attachment to dogs that i used to but still my dog takes priority. And i will go to great lengths to protect him.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,865 Posts
I would not wheel barrel a dog if you are by yourself. Even if you think you know which dog is the aggressor, which dog will back down if given the chance, etc.

What can happen is you grab one dog and the dog you were sure you could get to back down, now feels like he has BACK UP.... Namely you.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,837 Posts
Five dogs. Scuffles are bond to happen, but never serious. We've had two serious "I am going to kill you." fights, one of which I was alone. Of course the bitch fight happened when it was just me because it was fierce and ridiculous. One of my girls had the other by the side of her face and was just whipping her around the living room. Only thing I could do was have super human strength, grab the girl who was currently winning by her scruff, and send her skidding across the room. Then I scooped up my GSD mix and ran her into another room.

The other serious fight was good luck and fast movement. Smalls had it out with Shambles. Smalls meant business and Shambles meant business. The fight broke out within two feet of my boyfriend, who was pulling Smalls backwards but Shambles was still aggression and they were biting each others faces. I flew across the living room, grabbed Shambles by his back legs, and wheeled him out of there while he held onto Smalls. Both of them were still lunging and snapping, so if both of us weren't there it would have been much tougher to break up. Shambles ended up with some lacerations on his gums and above his eye and Smalls with a split in. I'd say in 15 seconds of contact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
gotta remember even in the smallest dogs they still have some instinct to survive even if its deep down in their little doggy brains. Every dog knows how to fight on an instinctual basis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,359 Posts
Well a good bit of advice I learned from good ol' Steph is if its gets bad enough and just cannot get them apart;


"STICK YOUR FINGER IN ITS BUTT!"


No really, it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
I would not wheel barrel a dog if you are by yourself. Even if you think you know which dog is the aggressor, which dog will back down if given the chance, etc.

What can happen is you grab one dog and the dog you were sure you could get to back down, now feels like he has BACK UP.... Namely you.....
This is a good point that I totally forgot about.
And it has happened to me. There was one fight where I had the aggressor by the hind end twirling him closer and closer to the gate to get him out of my group. But the foster dog and Kaki were all about it. So it was me playing ballerina with one dog while trying to hip check two in the face.

The most difficult fight I had was between a golden and a newfie. I got the newfie by the back end(fluff handles) but the golden just kept coming at him. So I switched and grabbed the goldens rear end. Same situation. It ended when a co-worker finally showed up and tossed the golden into the pool to help me drag a pissed of newfoundland out of the room. Longest fight I've ever dealt with and yet nobody was injured.

But I've also done some stupid things that did the trick. H*ll, last week I straddled and sat on a boxer that was going after an injured older dog(ACL/CCL).
/fight


ETA: I've had several posts that make Kaki sound like piss and vinegar lately. That's not really the case. She just REALLY wants to be on the winning team.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top