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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys! I just put a $200.00 deposit down on a 6 month old Dachshund that I'm picking up Thursday -- couldn't be more excited. However, I'm a full-time college student and since the responsiblity is going to be 100% MINE (not my parents, since I paid for him and everything), here is a big concern: my college schedule.

Here is my schedule:

Monday - class 7 a.m.-2 pm
Tuesday - observing teachers 7:30 am-12 pm BREAK (maybe let dog out?); class 2:30-5:00
Wednesday - class 7 am-2 pm
Thursday - observing 8 am-2 pm (1 hour break, come home, let dog out?)
Friday - class 2:30-5:00 pm (morning free)

Based on this schedule, what would be the best:
-Housebreaking method
-Potty training method
-Time to walk the dogs

I was thinking when I wake up, after my classes are done, and before bed for walking (and having him go to the bathroom).

Is crate training the best option? What about direct method? Wee-wee pads?

Please insight -- I'm a noob and I want to start housebreaking properly lol especially with time constraints

Best,
Andrew
 

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I would begin with crate training. But you will be even more successful if you put the puppy on a tight eating and elimination schedule from the start, being flexible enough to change as the puppy grows.

Ask the breeder what kind of schedule the dog has now. And I always assume that any dog (adult or puppy) coming to my house can't hold it longer than 2 hours until they prove to me otherwise.

So this would be my schedule:

*first thing in the AM...outside
*bring the dog into a gated room and feed breakfast while you are getting ready for your day
*potty the dog, and then crate while you are gone
*when you have days that you are home, take the dog out every two hours...or any time the dog is sniffing, circling, squatting
*if the dog is out of the crate it should be completely supervised...both eyes are on the dog or dog is in your lap, if you are doing homework and stuff tether the dog to you with a leash so it can't wander out of your sight to potty in a corner...or crate the dog
*midday...potty if you are home
*afternoons...let the dog out before you leave, every 2 hours if you are home, or as soon as you get home
*5-7 PM feed the dog dinner, whatever time works best for you, potty dog within an hour after dinner and every 2 hours during the evening
*potty before bed, crate the dog for the night
*if the dog wakes up dry in the morning then you will not have to make night time outings. If the dog DOES NOT wake up in a dry crate, then youwill have to set an alarm for every 2-4 hours to figure out his night time abilities...

Remember to food reward the dog as soon as the urine stops flowing (just keep the treats in your pocket or by the back door. Clean up any indoor messes with an enzyme cleaner from the pet store. Anything else will leave residue behind, breeds bacteria only dogs seem to smell, and then they return to the scene of the crime to repeat the offense.

The biggest problems we see with college-age people and dogs is that life can sometimes get very complicated with friends, socializing, climbing the career ladder, job obligations, and such. If you decide to do this it pretty much eliminates your ability to go out for a beer with friends vs. coming home to take care of the dog. And then there's the issue of finding housing that allows dogs in your future. This is a 10-15 year commitment. Where will you be in 5 years? 10 years? Can you afford major vet bills if the dog has a chronic illness? Do you have a plan to pay for the expenses which are typically highest in the first year? neutering? vaccinations? monthly heartworm preventative? food, bowls, leash, crate, toys, chewies, obedience classes, ...???

I think having a dog is do-able, I just think it takes a whole bunch more effort than you might imagine it being. If you are gone most of the day this dog will need attention and exercise in the time you have free? Do you have enough time to do school work, train a dog, possibly fit in some obedience classes, get the dog outside several times a day to eliminate and exercise (exercise some place other than the yard all the time...needs mental stimiulation)?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Brite, thank you SO much for the reply!

To answer you about effort: I'm a senior in college, and I actually don't drink/smoke or go partying - I'm more of a homebody, so I don't think using my spare time to take special care of this dog is too much to ask. I have wanted a dog my entire life, and giving my spare time to him is a small price to pay for a great companion.

Questions based on your response:
1) What is the name of this enzyme cleaner?
2) Do I need a specific type of food for my mini dox?
3) How much are crates usually?
4) Is there a de-sensitization period for the crate training? What do I do from the second I walk into the home with my new dog? Do I expose him to long periods of time immediately (in the crate)?
5) How long do you crate train for?
6) How often do you bathe the dog?

I have a room strictly with hardwood floors that I plan on leaving him in during the day when I cannot be around due to school so if he DOES have an accident, it's easily cleanable (as opposed to carpet!).

I am picking him up Thursday, so I wanted to get these questions out of the way immediately so im prepared! lol
 

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1. The one sold in my area is Natures Miracle, just go to the pet store and they will have it

2. You should continue to feed whatever the dog is eating with the breeder, for at least a month, until the dog settles in with you...then do some research in the food forum here to decide for yourself what would be best for you and your dog

3. Plastic or wire? Your choice. I like plastic because they double as a car carrier. Doxie size would be a size 100 VariKennel (brand name that holds up very well over the years...try Petedge.com for pricing...you may want to do a bunch of shopping on that site...they are the wholesaler for Petsmart and you get things WAY cheaper than retail

4. My dogs have all been "de-sensitized" the minute we got in the car to go home from the breeder. I don't let loose dogs in the car while I'm driving, or ever in the car for that matter! My daughter got locked out of her car by her dog the other day when the dog stepped on the door lock while she was out of the car for a minute to scrape her windshield...that sucked when her keys and cell phone were both inside the locked car with the dog! Not to mention that dogs become projectile objects if the vehicle is involved in an accident. So I de-sensitize my dogs by default. And they all sleep in the crate from their first night until their last. I start by smearing a bit of peanut butter on the back wall of the crate to entice them in. But if need be, I pick the dog up and put it in the crate, shut the door, lights out. Most dogs will whine a bit at first but you just have to wait them out. Some dogs do better (especially if YOU have to get up in the night to take them out) next to the bed. Others I've had are way too noisy and end up at the other end of the house.

5. Forever at my house. All of our dogs sleep in their crates, some eat in their crates, they go in crates when we leave the house, and for car trips.

6. When they need it. We've had some wet weather recently and my dogs are a bit dirty and smelly now. I'll bathe them when the weather breaks a bit and we return to more sunny weather. I bathed them last jsut before the Thanksgiving...lots of company coming and I wanted them to smell good!
 

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I have a room strictly with hardwood floors that I plan on leaving him in during the day when I cannot be around due to school so if he DOES have an accident, it's easily cleanable (as opposed to carpet!).
Crate the dog when you'e gone. Hardwood floors turn black from urine. I wouldn't leave the dog in that room! But, isn't this dog 6 months old? Should be housetrained by that age.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, 6 months, but i'm buying him from a pet store.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that he'll be ok in terms of accidents. I plan on sleeping next to him and the crate the first few nights to see if he needs any taking out. Is this a good idea?
 

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Seriously...get your deposit back or be out the $200. ALL pet store dogs come from PUPPY MILLS! ALL!

Find a reputable breeder and get an 8-10 week old puppy. The dog that you're going to get, you know nothing about. It's been kept in a cage all it's life. It's missed out on VITAL weeks of socialization and training. You're just asking for trouble. Either find a good breeder or rescue a dog from petfinder or your local humane society.
 

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Yes, 6 months, but i'm buying him from a pet store.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that he'll be ok in terms of accidents. I plan on sleeping next to him and the crate the first few nights to see if he needs any taking out. Is this a good idea?
Oui me......
I know that you already have your hopes set high about this puppy... but I'm going to say what the previous poster stated. All puppies from Pet Stores come from Puppy Mills. It is the saddest money making business around :(.
Here is a good link describing 10 Reasons Not to Buy a Puppy from a Pet Store:
http://hattrick-dals.home.att.net/10Reasons.html

One of the reasons includes information regarding to what you are asking about. Potty Training.

Trust me... I know first hand where these puppies come from they are not "so called" 'USDA Breeders, Reputable Breeders' It is all bologna... I worked at a PetLand for quite a while (BIGGEST MISTAKE and saddest experience of my life) and during that time I found out the sad and disgusting truth of where these pups come from, how they are treated (like crap with barely any health care at all), and how they are "returned" to the "breeder" after they have been in ShowCase for too long without being purchased. They are returned and most times just used as a Breeding Machine, or culled (killed, PTS). They are transported in a van or U-Haul truck in TINY cramped cages... no clear and fresh air to breath... then when they get to the store... people do a line up and toss them to each other to get them into the showcase room or cage as fast as they can. It's disgusting. These pups go from a cage with its mother and siblings, to a cage in a damned van PITCH BLACK, to a BRIGHT AS HELL cage in front of TONS of people they dont know... and knock on the glass and scare them... pick them up and handle them like if they are handling a basket ball. Sigh... so every dog that is purchased just OPENS another spot up for ANOTHER poor pup.

Here is a good site working towards stopping Puppy Mills for good. Sadly it probably will never happen, but any thing helps. Any person that turns away from a Pet Store puppy is keeping money out of the hands of a Money Hungry Monster that breeds dogs on end.
http://stoppuppymills.org/

It will more than likely be VERY HARD to potty train this puppy. Why? Because it has lived it's WHOLE 6 MONTHS in a cage. Walking over it's own feces and urine... going whenever they please... where ever they please. Getting a crate will not help it much at all... it is just the same as the cage it's living in now... and will go to the bathroom in it just the same.

If you are dead set on getting this puppy mill puppy... then so be it... and good luck... we will attempt to help you through it. But if you want to educate yourself and prevent more money going into a monsters hands... then research a bit more.

Look on www.petfinder.com for dogs and puppies that NEED homes desperately. Or go to a REPUTABLE BREEDER. For the money you are going to pay at the PetStore for a Puppy Mill pup, un health tested and deprived of proper socialization... you can get a GREAT quality pup from a great breeder.
Nessa
 

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I got Bella and Bug both from the Pet Store. The store I got mine from gets their puppies from breeders in the same county. We are a very rural area. I got to meet the breeder.

I'm sure you are unable to get your deposit back by this time. Only you can make the decision wether or not you will go through with it. Best of luck to you no matter what your decision is.
 

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I'd be careful about getting any puppy from a pet store--especially one as old as six months. But, people have already explained to you the problems that come along with purchasing such a puppy, so I'll leave that alone. ;S

I just wanted to say that I am a 19 year-old college student who also works two part time jobs. Granted, people are home at my house when I am not (usually), but the dog's training, socialization, and feeding falls on me. If you're committed, it's not even a chore. As long as you enjoy taking care of the puppy and realize that the amount of care for one is equivalent to having no free time, you'll be fine. Just remember that once you get the puppy, nothing comes before his or her needs.

But, you seem willing and dedicated already. I just wanted to relate to a fellow student with a busy schedule and reassure you that it can be done. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
In regards to the "puppy mills" claim -- I've also spoken to the breeder of this dog, and he's an extremely nice guy. No puppy mill for the store I purchased mine at! That's truly disguisting that stores still do that...

Thanks Entwine -- I'm looking forward to it! I'm picking him up Thursday, I'd love to put some pictures up...I just hope I can treat him well and train him and housebreak him effectively.

It's my first dog ever, so I'm just keeping my head high!
 

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In regards to the "puppy mills" claim -- I've also spoken to the breeder of this dog, and he's an extremely nice guy. No puppy mill for the store I purchased mine at! That's truly disguisting that stores still do that...

Thanks Entwine -- I'm looking forward to it! I'm picking him up Thursday, I'd love to put some pictures up...I just hope I can treat him well and train him and housebreak him effectively.

It's my first dog ever, so I'm just keeping my head high!
Spoken, as in talked on the phone? Or have you actually been to the place and met the dog's parents? Anyone can say anything on the phone
 

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In regards to the "puppy mills" claim -- I've also spoken to the breeder of this dog, and he's an extremely nice guy. No puppy mill for the store I purchased mine at! That's truly disguisting that stores still do that...

Thanks Entwine -- I'm looking forward to it! I'm picking him up Thursday, I'd love to put some pictures up...I just hope I can treat him well and train him and housebreak him effectively.

It's my first dog ever, so I'm just keeping my head high!
A lot of criminals are "extremely nice" when you talk to them, too. Even if this guy isn't churing out pups for bucks at the rate of a USDA licensed puppy mill, he's still far from being a reputable breeder. NO reputable breeder would sell their pups to a pet store for reasons including their not having any say in where the pups will end up, and the fact that being in a pet store can be very traumatic and risky for developing pups. Treating your pup well and training him may be the least of your worries if health problems that should have been tested for crop up as your puppy matures. I'm curious what your breeder might say if you asked him for proof of vWD testing, or recent CERF results for both the sire and dam of your pup, for example.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Are you saying ALL pups in ALL pet stores are from mills?

And they showed me my dog's folders which included stamps of up-to-date shots and vaccines from the vet.

I really don't think my dog is from a puppy mill.

However, what can I do to ensure that I'm getting a healthy, up-to-date pup?

From their site:
Shake A Paw buys our puppies from local hobbyist breeders and USDA inspected and approved kennels only!! No puppy mills or substandard kennels here! Every puppy arrives at Shake A Paw with a health certificate from the breeder or kennel's veterinarian, and is then evaluated for temperament, general conformation to the Breed Standard and overall health. Every puppy is literally hand picked by the store owner and staff, and very often your new puppy is "Pick of the Litter". Only after an additional examination by our store veterinarian to assure you of a healthy puppy is your puppy ready to go home. Another reason why Shake A Paw is Your Best Choice for a Healthy, Happy Puppy!
 

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That's what they all say. None of them are going to advertise "Hey, come buy our puppy mill dogs"!

As already stated, NO reputable breeder will sell their puppies to a pet store and have NO idea who is taking them home. Real breeders CARE about their dogs, not just $$$.

Why in the world is a 6 month old puppy still not spoken for? What's been going on for the past four months? At what age was he taken from his mother? How many littermates did he have?

It's not going to be impossible to train this dog, but it's going to be much harder than if you got him as a young puppy.

If you want a 6 month old puppy with a questionable background...rescue one! Don't keep pet stores in business. It just encourages less-than-reputable breeders to keep churning out dogs.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Are the vet visits and stamps also fake that are on his file? Signatures from the vet that he's healthy and up to date?

How do I find out for sure?

So you ARE saying EVERY pet in a pet store is from a puppy mill then?

I still don't buy this ...no signs showed that he is not healthy. Perfectly colored, no scratches or imperfection on his skin, snout, or face, palm pads are solid, no kennel cough or any odd gait.
 

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That's what they all say. None of them are going to advertise "Hey, come buy our puppy mill dogs"!

As already stated, NO reputable breeder will sell their puppies to a pet store and have NO idea who is taking them home. Real breeders CARE about their dogs, not just $$$.

Why in the world is a 6 month old puppy still not spoken for? What's been going on for the past four months? At what age was he taken from his mother? How many littermates did he have?

It's not going to be impossible to train this dog, but it's going to be much harder than if you got him as a young puppy.

If you want a 6 month old puppy with a questionable background...rescue one! Don't keep pet stores in business. It just encourages less-than-reputable breeders to keep churning out dogs.
I agree 100%. I rescued a dog about 3 weeks ago. Giving a chance at life to a dog that had no chance is SO much more rewarding and meaningful than just picking up a puppy from a store or a breeder IMO. With there being so many homeless dogs, I don't think I'll ever go to a breeder.
To the OP: I know puppies are incredibly cute but if you want a dog that will do well with your college schedule, you're much better off getting an adult (at least 1 1/2 to 2 years old).
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
So let me get this straight...

Based on what I've told you, you are automatically assuming that the dog I'm going to purchase is from a puppy mill based on the fact that "most" pet stores get dogs from puppy mills? Is that even a fact? What are the statistics?

I'm going to the store tonight to check up on my boy and play with him a bit.

Can someone PLEASE give me some questions to ask the salesperson/owner to ensure that my puppy is not from a mill? Any files to check? Docs to ask about?

Again, I looked at his file and he is up to date with all shots and vaccines, accompanied by a stamp and vet's signature for everything. He is extremely playful, lively, and loving, and shows no signs of sickness, or mishandling. He is smart, well-tempered, and healthy. Why should he be denied? Because he didn't come from the right place? I think this dog was meant to be with me, and I know it sounds corny, but I've been to that store and played a lot of dogs, and something just drew me to him over and over. Everything happens for a reason.I look at it as I'm rescuing him from "petstore hell" -- giving him a home to enjoy a comfortable life :)

I understand the nature of the discussion, and I do see some dogs in a pet store and I can just TELL that they haven't been treated right in a prior environment, but I don't think it's appropriate to make generalizations to every dog. Just like the OP who got his dog from a store, and spoke to the breeder.
 

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Are the vet visits and stamps also fake that are on his file? Signatures from the vet that he's healthy and up to date?

How do I find out for sure?

So you ARE saying EVERY pet in a pet store is from a puppy mill then?

I still don't buy this ...no signs showed that he is not healthy. Perfectly colored, no scratches or imperfection on his skin, snout, or face, palm pads are solid, no kennel cough or any odd gait.

It's not about his being "unhealthy". It's about irresponsible breeding and him missing out on living in a home during the MOST formative weeks of his life!
I'm sure he has been to a real vet. I'm sure he is healthy (for now). Here's a link for you to consider:

http://dogs.about.com/cs/generalcare/a/pet_stores.htm
 
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