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I tried finding a thread already on this, but suprisingly couldnt find one...

I've read the websites, and watched the videos online, but they dont really apply to anything beyond a few feet...

Noel has no problem coming when called in the house, or from a few feet away... But when she's in the backyard or anywhere outside for that matter, its a different story... It's like she doesnt even hear her name, which I know isnt the case... I've stood outside, Called "Noel Come!", and once in a while she will look and come, at which point I click and treat, but it's been a couple of weeks of this, and I can't get anything consistent...

How can I teach her to Come on command at all times, from more than just a short distance and not when inside? Like I said, she has no problem coming in the house, but once she's outside with all the smells and distractions, all bets are off...
 

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I understand I was looking for a thread on this too...I have the same problem with my dog. He used to come when called but in the last few weeks he just acts as if we're invisible. One day I was calling him for like half an hr and finally tricked him with a piece of bologna [and that took an extra 10 min for him to actually take the bait]. I wonder if it has to do with the snow? Awkward question I'm sure but there is just something about the snow...:confused:
 

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I teach a recall on leash. So I use a command "come" then a pull on the leash and lavish praise when the dog gets to you. I also make a game out of recall by running from one room to the other and saying "come" and then treating or praising lavishly when dog comes. As far as getting more distance, just increase the length of your leash or rope. I use a 50ft drag line or lead when teaching recalls outside. That way if the dog doesn't turn and come immediately they get a pull on the leash. I still praise and treat each time they come. Biggest mistake people make when teaching a recall is getting mad when they can't get their dog to come. Out of frustration people will yell at the dog or even spank the dog when they finally catch it. This effectively teaches the dog to NOT come. Make "come" a happy fun command. Training should be fun for you and your dog. Lots of treats and praise. Only train for a few minutes at a time but train a few times a day. You should see progress quite quickly. Once your dog is doing a good recall without distractions you can start working around a few distractions.
 

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Yep, on leash. As Inga said the big mistake often made is calling the dog to you and always ending the dogs fun. Or, immediately making them do something the dog doesn't like ie; calling the dog to you and giving a bath, trimming their nails, shutting them in their crate or scolding the dog. Calling and ending the dogs fun is a bad pattern to develop. One way to reward the Come is to send the dog right back out to continue his play....teaching him that Coming doesn't always mean the end of playtime.
 

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I used to use the leash-recall as the basis, but I'm now using Leslie McDervitt's Whiplash Turn from Control Unleashed and I LOVE it.

WT goes like this:
Teach leave it via doggie zen (make treat inaccessible in hand/under shoe when dog tries to get it, c/t for head-turn away from treat.) Progress to treat on ground and dog turning away and returning to you (1-2 steps) for BETTER treat. Add distance.

Start adding recall cue directly after leave-it cue. ("Leave it, come!") - by this point, the dog has an established pattern of RUNNING back to you for the better treat. Then start throwing in your recall alone with no distractions, but mostly keep doing it with a distraction (I mean, think about it - at least 2/3 of the time, when you call your dog, there are going to be more interesting things in the world. :p So you may as well condition that leaving something good gets you something better from the beginning.)

I'll take some video of this at class next week with the zoomie cairn.
 

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I taught "come" with another person with me and a leash, then a rope. They ensured the dog did not move until I asked him to come. I had the other end of the rope. I called their name and come, "Randy, come" and reeled him in.

We went from a few feet to 50 feet. Once he had 50 mastered completely, we took away the rope. Once he always came no matter what from that approximate 50 feet, we started to increase the distance WITHOUT the rope.

Worked for me. Randy had a 100% reliable recall his entire life until he went deaf a year or so before he passed away. It took probably six months to get it 100%, though. Practiced it almost every day over and over and over until it was rock solid.

A couple times the kids left the gate open, I just called him, "Randy! Come!" and he came back. (And the kids got in trouble but that's another story :D)

I ALWAYS used his name, though. That way, he knew without a doubt it was him, not another dog, not a kid, etc. Titan is being taught the same way with every command, his name then the command. Now that we have multiple dogs, it's even more important.
 

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I have a limited time 30 to 45 days. The first 2 to 3 weeks are tough on dogs as there are about 3 million corrections given and not much reward as they are not doing much right. The dogs are heeling, auto sits, downs and both sit and down stays. before I start comes. Quite frankly the last thing these dogs want are to come to me. I start them all the same way. I sit-stay them walk 4 ft in front of them, I'm holding the 6 ft lead. face them and give a name and come command and squeal act totally silly and run backwards away from dog. The squealing and acting silly gets 95% of them getting up to chase me. Dogs love to chase. after a few feet I stop hit them with a sit command(they don't have to be directly in front of me as this is not storm troopper school) just a sit near me. I probably do anywhere from 20 to 50 of these building a pattern. There is no jerking of the held lead just guiding. Next step is 10 ft in front of dog the lead has been dropped and I repeat the pattern and again 95% of the dogs when I do the command and the silly noises acting like there is something very exciting happening by me as I am running backward will chase and now I hit with sit command and treat when they sit immediately with some roughhousing with the dogs. I work in a 63 ft bldg and dogs are doing 55 ft comes dragging leads but coming very fast. I can beat up a dog and make him come but I have a weakness I like fast comes and force does not do the proper job. I'm not advising this method because amateur owners have a lot of time to work on their dogs. This is just the way I do it, Owners are told that these are started dogs not finished dogs, if they leave dog for 6 months I will have them walking on water.
 

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I teach a recall on leash. So I use a command "come" then a pull on the leash and lavish praise when the dog gets to you. I also make a game out of recall by running from one room to the other and saying "come" and then treating or praising lavishly when dog comes. As far as getting more distance, just increase the length of your leash or rope. I use a 50ft drag line or lead when teaching recalls outside. That way if the dog doesn't turn and come immediately they get a pull on the leash. I still praise and treat each time they come. Biggest mistake people make when teaching a recall is getting mad when they can't get their dog to come. Out of frustration people will yell at the dog or even spank the dog when they finally catch it. This effectively teaches the dog to NOT come. Make "come" a happy fun command. Training should be fun for you and your dog. Lots of treats and praise. Only train for a few minutes at a time but train a few times a day. You should see progress quite quickly. Once your dog is doing a good recall without distractions you can start working around a few distractions.

What Inga said. :D

Yep, on leash. As Inga said the big mistake often made is calling the dog to you and always ending the dogs fun. Or, immediately making them do something the dog doesn't like ie; calling the dog to you and giving a bath, trimming their nails, shutting them in their crate or scolding the dog. Calling and ending the dogs fun is a bad pattern to develop. One way to reward the Come is to send the dog right back out to continue his play....teaching him that Coming doesn't always mean the end of playtime.
I totally agree. :D
 

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Yep, on leash. As Inga said the big mistake often made is calling the dog to you and always ending the dogs fun. Or, immediately making them do something the dog doesn't like ie; calling the dog to you and giving a bath, trimming their nails, shutting them in their crate or scolding the dog. Calling and ending the dogs fun is a bad pattern to develop. One way to reward the Come is to send the dog right back out to continue his play....teaching him that Coming doesn't always mean the end of playtime.
YES.

So important, yet so simple...and most beginners don't do it. They only call the dog to end the fun and wonder why it soon doesn't work.

I was at the dog park this morning working on recalls during distraction. I have been using an ecollar but for this post that's not important.

I call her name (which I use as the come command), she would come right to me, I would give her a brisk "behind the ear scratching" and verbal praise, "sometimes" a small treat...and then an "ok" to go back to whatever she was doing before. I repeated this throughout the afternoon, and it really strengthened the behavior.
 

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I find that's the easiest way to teach come using a long line. I see it alot at the dog park, dogs that just won't come. No surprise though, the only time the dog is called is to leave the park. I started that a long time ago with Bayley. I'd have her out on the trail and let her get quite a ways away and then I'd call her; usually I'd have a treat but not always. Then when she got to me, a quick pat or a treat and then I'd tell her to go play and away she'd go. I'd do that numerous times in the course of a walk and at the park. It works well if you use the long line until he's really reliable.
 

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PRATICE PRATICE PRATICE, This is a BIGGY this is one of those save your dog's life kinda things, Well frist off Dont use the word Come more then once by repeating the command we teach the dog that comming is optional or that they can ignore the word. Also many dogs learn that when we call them the fun is Over to fix that if you have your dog in a play session or something great call them if they come prasie the heck outta them, then let them go back to their fun and repeat repeat repeat. I really pay attention to how my dogs responed to the word come word do they responed 80% of the time? 50%? IF the dog dose not responed to the word come 50% of the time or Less Time to start re-training with a fresh new word "Hier and Front" work great it could be a whisle whatever you can re-teach your dog and stay consistant with.

Once you have a new word or "come" time to build an amazing assocation with this word, I like to think of it as Come= dog lottery!!! First I like to build the new asscoation up with a fun game of HIde and Seek (and wow can this game teach your dog to come) Pretty much start inside with two people one person say the dogs name then the cue Come here whatever word once the dog gets to you BIG reward!! then the other person hideing somwhere calls the dogs name then Huge jackpot reward, repeat repeat repeat, Dogs LOVE this game. Once the assoication with the new word or come has been met time to set your dog up for some sucesss, in real life situations.

First off I never use the word come or here, unless im 99% sure that my dog will come to me, so i test it first, i do this by calling the dogs name "Rover" If Rover looks at me or gives me any sign of attention and i am 99% SURE that he will come to me only then will i use the word "come" If I were to call Rovers name and I got no respone I wouldnt even bother with my speical recall word insted I would try a Bribe word such as "treat, cookie, car ride" in hopes to get my dogs attention back on me, If that also fails then thirdly i belive you shouldnt repeat any commands you can not enforce,(again the dog learns to igonroe the word and/or it becomes optional) therefore during the training process your dog should NEVER be off leash. I like to use a long 20-30 ft line for this Ive also found a Use for those "retractable leash's" I use them for recalls. If my re-call word hasnt worked, then my bribe word has failed i can easily enforce it with a little tug on the leash or if my dog is in danger i can just reel them back to me. Also as mentioned above never use your recall word for punishment/ things the dog dosent like nail trims ect.... I mean NEVer Even if you chased your dog through the woods for hours (Which hepponed to me with a foster once Ughh) At some point if you can get your dogs attention even tho your FURIOUS you need to be upbeat and happy and yes good job good job dogs live in the present so this is hard for humans.

Another wonderful tip is ALWAYS ALWAYS Reward your dog when you use your re-call word (you can fade out rewards later but for come its too important to not reward) I Highly recommend Not useing the same boring reward over and over and over dogs catch on to this and get bored with that same boring beef treat time after time, SO DOG LOTTO TREAT boy do i mean jackpot use super treats ( tiny bits hot dogs chicken liver) AND SWTICH REWARDS Tug games, fetch game, tons of praise varry this each time. The reward for responed to a re-call word should be at LEAST ten seconds of food fun prasie. The idea behind this is everytime the dog hears its recall word they don't know what is going to heppon but They better get there butts over to there owner fast because something wonderful is about to heppon because everytime they hear that word they get all theese awesome differnt rewards!!!

Theese tips can def build up a VERY realible recall. Another tip when you dog is getting really good at hide and seek take it outside, I did this with my pup and omg did it work, we would go take a walk down a path (off leash i was a bad dog mom) when my pup got a few too many steps ahead of me I would run and tuck behind a tree really quick i would peek out and the look on my pups face "oh S*** where did my mama go?) Then I would blast out with my dogs name and his recall word and he would rush over soo exicted, By doing this My dog learned very quicky that Humans get lost really easy so they better stick really really close to them. As long as you are doing regular training along with NILIF training this will work Us humans are in charge of EVERYTHING the dog likes food games exercise petting ect... So to Loose that kind of rescoure really makes them stick close (I would suggest doing this in a fenced backyard or on a long line) I think I hit on everything I may have missed something But Hopefully that will help you all get your dogs comming to you Realibly every time those are all the "big training secerts" the truth is it takes Time pratice and consistancy and in the case of your dog chaseing a bunny dont expect a bribe word to work dogs need to be trained with the distraction of prety in order to be able to stop themsleves. And If all else fails there is always teaching your dog to DROP into a Down postion from anywhere also another one that takes tone of time and work but the results are so worth it!! Hope that helps
 
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