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Separation anxiety of a Mini Australian Shephered

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I have a seven month old Miniature Australian Shepherd. During the nights she mostly sleeps through in her crate. At time she refuses to get into the crate and we let her sleep with my daughter which seems to work out fine.

During the day she is all alone. She sleeps most of the day but then she wakes up around 12 pm or so. She goes on chewing things. She ruined two of our couches. Few rugs. Some comforters. She is unstoppable. Can she be kept in crate? We are out between 8 am through 3 pm. Is seven hours too long to keep her in a crate? What is the downside of keeping her in the crate for that long/
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For my mini Aussie giving him a solid workday routine and lots of physical/mental stimulation is they key to working with his sepration anxiety.

Workday routine looks like

6-7am = wakeup/walk 30-60 mins (fetch)
715-830 =get ready/eat
830-1230= away from home/work
1230-1pm = dog walker/trusted friend or neighbor/myself will let the dog out at lunch ( I live 15 mins from work so it’s easy for me but if you don’t live near you’re work get a dog walker or friend/neighbor to take the dog out)
1-530=work
530-630= 30-60 min walk (fetch)
630-7 =cook dinner
7=I eat followed by my dog eats
7-830 house stuff
830-845 = quick walk/fetch
845-950 =house stuff
950-10= let the dog out quick before bed
10pm-6am= zzzzzz ( my dog does not sleep in crate)

My dog loves fetch so if I play fetch with him our walks are about 15 mins walking/15 mins playing fetch otherwise I run/walk 60 mins with him ( this is is physical stimulation) fetch also works as a little mental stimulation.

Mini aussies need lots of exercise compared to most dogs so she will need 2x long walks a everyday along another 2-3 Times out (5x total a day), if you skip walks expect destruction.

For Mental stimulation

-My dog always sits and waits for his food before I say ok or I make him do tricks for it
-leave Kong’s filled with treats and kibble toys to engage him when she alone (I only give him these toys when he’s alone or if it’s raining/snowing out and our walks are cut short)
-leave a radio on (talk/sports radio is what I leave on) and keep the rooms she’s in dark (I.e. quiet time for him)
-dog proof a room for her or or over nexts she can easily destory (pillows)
-I leave a shirt or something with my scent on it by his bed/crate for him
-never say goodbye to your dog just leave the house and when you come home ignore her until she is calm.

If you do leave her in crate for 7 hours just make sure someone lets her out half way between being alone (if you or no one else is around you can hire a dog walker Either either by finding someone that walks dogs or use the apps like rover or wag).

Plus side leaving her in the crate is she won’t destory the house but the downside is she will be more hyper(espically if she is not exercised)

On you’re free time have you or family members practice leave her alone for short times at first followed by longer as she gets better with it( I have a webcam to see walk my dog is doing).

Just remember to give her a solid routine and lots of physical/mental stimulation and she will thrive if she does not get this she will become destructive( when my friend watched my dog for 2 weeks while I was out fo the country, he never took him on walks,so with that excess energy/boredom he destroyed pillows and couches but I’ve almost never had this problem minus his first couple weeks because I keep him engaged when I’m around).

Hope this helps and sorry for the confusion on he/she (mines a he lol)
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Crate her days. She will be fine. Give her a raw beef neck bone, knuckle bone or rib bone to gnaw on (not any weight bearing marrow bones.. they can break teeth) or a couple of kongs stuffed with plain yogurt (and frozen). At 7 months old, she needs a bit of structure. She may never be a dog that can be left loose in the house (and that is OK). This is not separation anxiety. This is simple "I'm a puppy and I am bored and I WILL find things to do and you won't like it." BTW when you crate her days, I suggest she not have ANY bedding in the crate as she may tear it up. I have one like this.

When you get home, get her out to pee and poop and let her be part of the family when you are around.

I would not reward her by letting her sleep with your daughter after she "refuses" to go in her crate (use food!! leave a leash on her and let her drag it and when it is time, crate her with a couple of pieces of kibble in there).
Thank you for your response. I do want to try crating her during the day and see how she responds. Btw, about the bones, I came across this:

http://www.businessinsider.com/fda-warns-dog-owners-not-to-buy-bone-treats-2017-11

How real is this? Any idea anyone? Do you continue to feed bone treats to your dog?
My dogs eat raw including large and small bones. I watch them. The reason to avoid marrow bones is the shafts of large mammal leg bones are harder than dog teeth. Knuckles, ribs and necks are softer bone.

Danger is there. Too much bone can cause concrete poop. Shards can perforate any part of the bowel. Dogs can choke when they try to swallow bone. Teeth can crack. My dogs have suffered from concrete poop when they have eaten too much bone. I feed calcium free meals before and after a planned big bone meal to minimize this. Shards have all passed right through, one dog swallowed a chicken neck whole, another passed a hambone, 3" shard of ceramic, whole cuponoodle styrofoam cups and so on. If they attempt to swallow before the bony bit is chomped enough then they bring it up and I tell them to chomp longer this time. Both these dogs did have slab fractures that needed no treatment late in life. No idea when or how the fractures happened.

ANY treat or toy can injure your dog. It's up to us to know our animals and act accordingly. If you want to try raw knuckles or neck bones then be sure they are larger than your dog's skull so they cannot be taken in the mouth and attempts made to swallow. Do a few rehearsals first so you know how your dog acts with raw bones. It would be good practice for leaving her crated anyway, you want to have her confined so she doesn't decide to have a great time chewing a raw bone on your sofa!
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Raw bones from the butcher are not those deadly splintering cooked things! Get human grade raw bones.
For my dogs (German Shepherd sized) I have no issue with raw chicken necks, but have been advised to stay away from raw Turkey necks.
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