Please I Need Help!

949 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Abbylynn, Jun 30, 2012

ShibaLover

Discussion Starter · Jun 22, 2012

My sister,nearly 4 years ago, bought a black and tan Shiba Inu puppy from a pet store. The dog, named Puck, is a strictly one person dog, liking me over my sister and her husband. Well my sister got tired of the dog and gave him to me and heck I don't mind one bit. Problem, the dog barks at everything and runs off at the first scent he catches. In order to correct that I talk him for roughly 3 1/3 mile walks every day weather allowing. Puck also pulls harder on the leash that any dog I know of, even with a choke chain! At the end of the walk he is still full of energy.The dog knows his basic sit and lay down commands but anything other than that he grows bored and ignores me. Can anyone help me? Is there another way to curb his hunting instinct and pulling? Or is he a lost cause as my sister has always said. I refuse to give up on him but I also don't have a ton of money to have the dog trained by a professional. Please, someone help me!

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Willowy

· #2 · Jun 22, 2012

Does he get any other exercise? 1 mile a day is nothing, really. He needs to run hard, so for a hike, play fetch in the yard, etc. Shibas are hard-wired to go after prey and aren't good off-leash candidates, so don't let him loose in an unfenced area. He pulls on his leash because he hasn't been trained not to--Google "loose-leash walking" and "silky leash"

No dog is a "lost cause", but it does take a lot time and effort. Are you willing to put in that time and effort?

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Deaf Dogs

· #3 · Jun 22, 2012

He's going to pull on a choke chain due to oppositional reflex, especially if you're not using it properly. If you cant get him to stop pulling on the choke chain, you will do serious damage to his neck. Get him off the choker and use either a head halter or a front clip harness. there is little to no oppositional reflex with those, so it's highly likely he wont pull nearly as much, even without training. I like the Newtrix head halter for bad pullers, as it attaches behind the head and works against oppositional reflex. I use a Black Dog Balance Harness for a front clip harness, but there are other good ones as well

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ShibaLover

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 22, 2012

I walk Puck nearly 3 1/3 miles a day if I can. If I can not due to weather than I take him into my indoor riding arena and play fetch and have him go over some mini jumps for an hour or more. I do take him on hikes when I feel it would be safe to have a dog that pulls on me every chance he gets. I have tried every trick I know of to get him to stop pulling, tricks that have worked with past dogs. Choke chains, haltis, head collars and nothing works. It took my sister nearly a year to house train him. Not saying he is stupid or anything it just seems to me that he is either to stubborn or maybe even aloof by nature. Thank you for your advice however.

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Amaryllis

· #5 · Jun 22, 2012

How are you training him?

My dog seemed downright stupid when I got him. Clicker training and using hand signals instead of verbal commands (we're working on verbals now after 6 months) revealed a dog quite capable of learning. He's also got problem solving skills I never would have suspected. (See also: unlocking the garbage can)

If you are using correction based training, i.e., collar "pops", etc., it's no surprise he doesn't have much urge to learn anything. Switch to clicker training and see what happens. If you are using a positive system without the clicker, get a clicker. It does make a difference. If you are already using a clicker, reconsider the treats you use. Perhaps they aren't high value enough. Or, perhaps your dog prefers a game of tug to a treat as a reward.

Keep training sessions short and begin and end on something you know he will do, even if it's just responding to his name. Dogs get frustrated, too. Success builds on success, so make sure to set your dog up to succeed.

You may also want to look into the Premack Principle". I have found it invaluable in training leash behavior.

Whatever you do, ditch the choke chain. He could do permanent tracheal damage while you watch, completely unaware.

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Willowy

· #6 · Jun 22, 2012

Shibas are like cats

. You have to make them think it's THEIR idea or they won't do it. And force just makes them more stubborn. Try the clicker training and other positive methods. I think you'll see better results.

3 1/3 mile walks looks a lot like three one-third mile walks, instead of three-and-a-third mile walks

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Nev Allen

· #7 · Jun 23, 2012

I believe in teaching a dog to swim and then getting him into a river, or lake or the beach, wherever and swimming them for 10 minutes, then throwing a ball to dry them off. Great exercise and very tiring.

I second the clicker training and upgrade your treats anyway. Use roast chicken/beef/lamb/turkey. Treats should be no bigger than your little finger nail.

And teach him his name. When you call his name he should immediately look to you and say " Yeah. Watyawant". When you get that you will have his focus and can start working on recalls.

Google "Look at That game" and "It's your Choice". Both teach self control and focus.

You have your work cut out with such a head strong breed that has evidently had none to very little training so start at the bottom again and work up. Be patient and take your time. Do not rush any of the training. Rather spend a week or longer on one point and get it 100%, but be prepared to restart the training on that point again when you take the exercise to another environment.

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ShibaLover

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jun 27, 2012

The treats i currently use are cooked ground beef but in the past i did use chicken. He seems to faavor the beef so that is what I've been using. I will try a clicker, no one has really ever told me that it was a good idea so i will buy one and a new set of tennis balls from the pet store.

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Pawzk9

· #9 · Jun 27, 2012

ShibaLover said:
I have tried every trick I know of to get him to stop pulling, tricks that have worked with past dogs. Choke chains, haltis, head collars and nothing works. .

He's a SHIBA, not a 90 lb. American bulldog. He can't take you anywhere you refuse to go. Dogs pull because we go with them when they do (and also because we pull back). Start in low distraction environments, and everytime he heads toward the end of the leash, back up or turn and go the opposite direction. He gets to go the direction he wants only if the leash is loose. And a front attach harness will help when you don't have time to do the training. Hard to pull against something that is in front of you.. Also look into positive reinforcement based training and a cool little method called "Silky Leash"

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ShibaLover

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jun 30, 2012

Well thank you all for your help. The clicker seemed to work I mean he actually seemed to care about what I was trying to teach . But, this morning he bolted out the front door as I was carrying out a can ir garbage. I drove all over trying to find him and I did. A local rancher mistook him for a wolf somehow and shot him, the rancher was in tears when he brought Puck home in the bed of his truck. He even helped me to dig the grave which I couldn't bear to do alone. So after all of this it was worthless but helpful. Thanks again.

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Abbylynn

· #11 · Jun 30, 2012

ShibaLover said:
Well thank you all for your help. The clicker seemed to work I mean he actually seemed to care about what I was trying to teach . But, this morning he bolted out the front door as I was carrying out a can ir garbage. I drove all over trying to find him and I did. A local rancher mistook him for a wolf somehow and shot him, the rancher was in tears when he brought Puck home in the bed of his truck. He even helped me to dig the grave which I couldn't bear to do alone. So after all of this it was worthless but helpful. Thanks again.

I am so very very sorry.

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