It can take a few days for gi problems to manifest. Hwever, I would at least supplementing with ground egg shells or at the very least some Tums-type product to get the elemental calcium in balance.
Your dogs may be accustomed to an occasional meal of ground meat. But when their gut figures out that this is the daily fare from now on you may see quite a gi revolt happen. The calcium, in any form, will help stop that train from going too far down the track in the beginning. In fact, I'd rather see a dog straining a bit and have slightly chalky looking stools in the beginning rather than the oppopsite...dark, runny, almost watery stools that require hourly outings...usually a result of too much phosphorus from a high meat diet (not enough calcium...usually found in the bones served at the same time... to balance the meat)
I wouldn't worry about too much weight loss. If you think there is any sign that your dogs are losing weight you can just increase their daily ration. And remember, even though you are feeding 6 cups of dry food right now...there is a high percentage of carbs in that food (unless it it Evo or something without carbs) so your dogs are getting a lot of calories from carbs. Protein and carbs each have 4 calories per gram. Fat has 9 calories per gram. So here's more work for you to do....what % of carbs and protein are in their kibble that they were maintaining on...therefore how many grams / ounces / pounds of protein do you need in a raw diet to to replace it? And look to see the % of fat in their kibble...if they were doing well on that then you could figure out how many grams / ounces of fat they need in addition to their protein (which will be replacing protein and carbs from the kibble) on raw.
Personally, I like about 15-20% fat in my dogs' raw diet. The younger one needs the fat for energy (she does lots of agility training...and keeping the pasture safe for all who enter!) and the older ones need the fat to keep their flowing coats looking great. I've also discovered while doing a food allergy elimination diet that anything less than ~13% fat leaves my dogs without energy and their coats are terrible. And I am totally eyeballing it, except when the grocery has the fat of the ground meat already labeled. I do weigh their meals only because they are such small dogs that they can get fat very quickly, within one week. But once you know what a protion is for your dogs and how they are doing (too fat, too thin, just right) then you just go with what looks right.
When feeding your dogs you have to re-learn everything you know about nutrition. As humans they tell us to take off the skin from chicken and to trim all visible fat from our meat. I do just the opposite for my dogs. I leave it all on, and then some. Sometimes I buy the really fatty looking stuff (they have this stuff called "pork trim" at one of our groceries, I wouldn't eat it unless I wanted to head for cardiac arrest)...but it works great for my dogs for a few meals each week. I also look for the markdowns (soon to expire usually) at the grocery on the already cheap ground beef at 20-30% fat. But then I balance that day by feeding a leaner cut for the other meal. For instance, I can get pork shoulder roasts really cheap on sale, but ther is almost no fat on those. So that can be the other meal of the day. It's all about balance over time, not about trying to balance every meal.
But to reinterate...I'd find one protein and stick to it for at least 2 weeks (be sure to add calcium in some form), then add in that specie's organs...slowly for another week until you get to 10% each day. Most dogs cannot tolerate an entire meal of organs as they are very rich. Then you can go to a different species one at a time, never more than one new one per week so you know if something gives them distress.
Organs are important in the long run, not the short haul. Heart meat is an excellent source of taurine, an amino acid protien build block. Liver provides vitamins A & D. So if you're getting liver into the menu within 4-6 weeks, you're doing great...no need to supplement for that short of a delay...the dogs will be fine. And dogs can manufacture their own taurine (unlike cats, which if you are raw feeding cats, that's another obstacle to research) but extra really helps them nutritionally. The only other things I add are a bit of salmon oil 2-4 times per week (we don't get enough oily fish around here), raw eggs occasionally (we have our own organicly raised chickens), and a bit of yogurt when I remember. Oh, and I buy a can of tripe every now and then when I am walking through Petco for other things and they get a small spoonful every few days until the can is gone.
There are a number of things that dogs should never be fed. Most of us know the typical poisons...chocolate, etc. But raw feeders need to know never to feed Pacific salmon or trout as it contains a parasite that is only fatal to the canid species (including dogs) so human consumption fish is not tested for the parasite as it does nothing to humans. Never Pacific salmon or trout, farmed or wild, never.
