New puppy questions.

crate piddling:
pull her water supply 2 hours before bed, and go for a nice 10 minute walk before you crate her for the night.
Drink a big glass of water before bed so that your bladder will wake you up. Take a potty break for you and a potty break for your puppy.

agression:
to me it sounds like you are dealing with it appropriately. Min pins are prone to snarkie sharkieness, so while you are dealing with it correctly for a typical dog, i'm not 100% its ideal for a min pin. Be sure that you always have a positive choice to offer, even after the tantrum. Get her calm and instantaneously offer an appropriate chew.

Walkies:
put the collar and leash on for about an hour and let her wander her environment and get over it. DO keep her in your line of sight so that she is safe.
Anytime you are at the other end of the leash and want to move say "let's go!" wait 1/2 a second and then start walking. If she plants her feet, keep steady tension on the lead, say "let's go!" again and do not let up until you get forward movement. When you do, praise like crazy. Forward movement is step one to leash training.
Food baits, doggy friends, and toys also help to entice the forward movement and keep attention. Remember it has to be fun, and the only punishment for keeping still should be the slight discomfort of the tension of the leash. no tugging or snatching.

This is the fun part of forums..you're going to get all sorts of different advice..lol.

Mine is different from the above.

Reduce her freedom. Puppy proof so she doesnt' have the opportunity to get your leather belt, shoes, remote controls or whatever. If she cannot be watched she should be in her crate. Management is key here. She has to EARN her freedom to roam. If you don't want her in the crate, get a waist leash and tie her to your waist while you go about your business (being careful not to step on your little..)

When/If she DOES get something she shouldn't have in her mouth TRADE for a treat and then replace with a proper chew toy. Do not rip something or force it out of her mouth..this creates many more problems than you will want to deal with. Use the trade game for everything and eventually add a drop cue. This comes in very handy later, on walks, when she will pick up everything she can find, including the leash, in her mouth. She is now going to be teething and will need appropriate softish toys for chewing on.

Don't pin the puppy. Period. Do calming "holds" when she is NOT doing something you don't like. Hold her in your lap, hand on chest (under front legs) with her back to your chest so she cannot nip your hands or face and just hold her firmly but not tightly until she stops struggling, then rub her tummy soothingly and say "settle" or "calm". Repeat as often as you can. This is to teach her to be calm in your arms/hands. Pinning only teaches her your hands are scary...and CAN increase her discomfort/fear/tantrums to real biting.

Let her drag her leash around (again when supervised) and then occasionally start picking it up and letter her wander a bit, the less tension on the leash the better at first. Reward her every time you put the leash and collar on.

For walking on leash. Be patient. She's only 8 weeks old, and by getting her at 7 weeks you got her right in the midst of her first fear development period..she needs time to adjust to not only the leash and collar but the outside world in general. It's a dang scary place when you weigh three pounds...there is also a boatload of distractions.

You should be working on socialization at this point, leash manners come later, when she is able to feel safe and actually concentrate on what she is doing. If you have to pick her up and take her away from the house and walk her home instead, do that. Puppies always put on the brakes, and it gets worse around 14 weeks for a while as they go through another "holy crap" period. All normal developmental stages for the puppy.

Work on taking her out and introducing her to all sorts of people, play "pass the puppy" and have her handled (nicely and positively with lots of treats) by as many different people (sizes, ages, sexes, colours) as possible. Include people with beards, glasses, hats, big coats, umbrellas etc etc. The initial socialization period lasts from 6 to 14 weeks or so and this should be your main focus aside from housetraining.

Get the book "The Puppy Whisperer" by Paul Owens. It's GREAT and will go a long way towards helping you understand the stages your puppy goes through and how to handle each one. It gives graduated training lessons (kindergarten through college level) so you learn how to increase the difficulty of her skills over time.

I hope this is helpful for you.

The best way I have found to deal with tantrums is to ignore..but a lot depends on WHY the tantrums happen in the first place..can you tell me the usual situation in which they happen? The idea is to find a way that works for you that prevents it from happening (so the behaviour doesn't get "practiced") without it being the dog gets her way all the time.

As for using the crate when you cannot be supervising. You teach the dog to crate up on cue by at first using lures, lure the pup in, give the food. Pup comes back out. Repeat. Then remove the food lure using only the hand (same movement) and then reward from the other hand. Once this is happening reliably you add the cue "kennel" or whatever you like to use. Practice some more. Then it's kennel and close the door, reward. It's getting the pup socialized to the crate. Building up time with the door closed. Do this once or twice a day.
The rest of the time, lure her in, give her a kong filled with pb or cream cheese and kibble and frozen (I make up several at a time) and just leave her. She should ALWAYS have something to chew on (tasty) that is only for crate time. It will take some time to learn to be happy there but it will come. The crate then becomes a rewarding place to be, instead of a stressed out place.

Oh and about the treats. I recommend several little dishes filled with pieces of kibble, tiny bits of freeze dried liver and one or two small bully sticks placed strategically around the house..(near her crate, in the kitchen, near the door where she goes out to "do business" etc) means you always have something available. Every opportunity you have to reward her for good behaviour means the behaviour occurs more frequently. Preparing yourself is the way to win the games! You can't play if no one brings the ball to the field!