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i got my puppy at roughly 6 weeks old. he is a rotty lab mix. ever since we got him we have been working with him constantly trying to train him.
he is now 4 months old and still doesnt get really anything.
he finally got sit and lay down!! lol but other then that he doesnt understand. :doh:

he is showing signs of dominance aggression.
- you cant touch him when he is sleeping
-he will NOT listen to me or my mother, only my boyfriend when he is here.
-i know he is a puppy but he likes to jump up and bite
-i recently tried pepper on my hands so when he went to bite he got a nice taste of it, and that is kinda working for now
-when you scold him he has the tendency to growl or even snap

he is constantly picking on my 11 yr old american eskmo
-my eskmo has back hip problums and the pup is always biteing or tackleing him

he will NOT go to the bathroom out side.
-no matter what we try and how much we have him out he just wont go, he can be locked in his crate for hours while im at school and i will take him straight out and stay out with him for over an hour and he will do nothing untill we get inside.
-although he wont go outside there has been a few times he has gone in the CAT LITTER so we even brought some of that out and... nothing.
- we live in an apartment so i cant really have him going all over the floor all the time because my landloard would kill me if he saw it.

he is constantly after my cats
- i have 3 cats that he is always chasing around my apartment, i dont think he is trying to be mean about it because there are times he will lay with them and just lick them, but then there are times i find him with their heads all the way in his mouth.

he eats EVERYTHING
-when i say everything i mean EVERYTHING from not only his toys that get destroyed but my other dogs and my cat toys to the table, my cloths and shoes, ANYTHING he can get his little paws on. :mad:
- he chews through cords, the other day he chewed my vaccume cord in two. he also got my computer cord

other strange habbits he has
- he thinks he is a cat, yes i am serious, and its not only him using the litter box to go potty, his name is lugnut and he really only comes to "kitty kitty"
-he bites ankles now he is big enough that he could get my knees and almost my hips but he still only goes for the ankles that is unless he gets you on the floor then he will go for anything but the face. we NEED to break him of this before he gets any bigger.

no he is not a mean dog, but im afraid that if we dont break him of his habbits now when he is almost 200 lbs and can overtake me that he may just try.
he is actually very loving when he wants to be.

ok so the 3 things he does well. yes there are only 3,
he sits when commanded
he lays down when commanded
and he does very well on walks with other people around
-he is actually well behaved with others when on a leash in public
but as soon as he is inside with other people aroud he jumps all overthem and evds up in the crate

HELP ME PLEASE. ANY ADVICE IS WELCOME
 
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I agree with curbside prophet. It's going to be super hard for anyone to help with this issue over the internet. Because they can't see what techniques you are using and then show you how to modify.
Please try not to blame the dog when it could be that it's something that you are doing. Dog aren't good or bad or stupid, they just producs of their genetics and their environment

This is very very imortant. Stop scolding the dog right now. The growling is defensive and it's going to get worse if you continue to scare him.
It's going to be hard to tell you all the things you need to do but here are some things to definately NOT do!
Never scold - complety uncesseary and counter productive in a dog so young. Puppies nip, puppies pee in the house. It's normal
Never yell, never hit, never use aversive methods like pepper, choke chains, prongs, no leash yanking etc..
Additionaly the pepper just going to make your dog afraid of you hands.

So when you find a trainer, but sure to use one who uses positive methods only - clicker and treats. If they want you do things that are averive (like yelling, scruffing, etc..) then find another trainer.
Sadly there are still a lot of trainers who tell people to grab their dog by the scruff of the neck and growl at him/her. This is just going to make your dog defensive and possibly aggressive.

While you are searching for a good trainer, a couple of excellent books for training are:
Family Friendly Dog Training http://amzn.to/e3Fl5E
It's Me Or The Dog http://amzn.to/h4b8wW
Before and after you get your puppy: http://amzn.to/euupAL

Here is some info on nipping. You never ever have punish for nipping. Do NOT grab the dog's snout. Do NOT grab the bottom part of his mouth (as some trainers suggest). Do not yell, or scruff shake, and stop using pepper.

Puppy Nipping

Inappropriate nipping or biting in puppies usually happens when a pup is taken from his litter mates too soon – this often happens with puppy mill puppies – or with puppies who did not have litter mates.

Dogs learn bite inhibition from their brothers and sisters. When a puppy bites his litter mate too hard, the offended puppy yelps and walks off.

According to author Jean Donaldson : “..puppies are thought to have such sharp, needle-like teeth is so that it will hurt when they bite other puppies. Puppies need feedback in the form of play interruptions for overly hard biting, but their jaws are too weak to cause pain with pressure alone. Hence the sharp teeth..”

So when your puppy nips you, do not hit, spank, squeeze his/her lips, etc.. just let out a high pitched “yikes!” or “ouch!” Then redirect your puppy to a more desireable activity such as playing with a squeaky toy or chewing on a kong. Redirecting is very important so that biting/nipping does not become a habit. And if the puppy isn’t redirected to an alternate behavior, then she might stop nipping then start again.

Some people might have trouble with the high pitched yelp. Especially those with deeper voices. These folks will have to work harder to sound like an offended puppy. Also, if you want to be a little bit harsher, right after “yelping” you can walk off or simply stop playing with your puppy – the same thing his littermates might do. You can wait a few minutes then resume calm play or calm petting. If you stay gone for too long, the puppy will forget why you left and now you have a lonely puppy who did not learn anything.


See the below video from Dog Tainer, Emily Larlham. Stopping an undesireable behavior before it starts is always an excellent way to train your fur kids.

Additionally, if you don't want to read the available books ( I think you should)
There is a lot of great positve info on the Internet. But exercise caution. Don't do anything to harm your puppy or harm your relationship with your puppy.
Here two great postive sites that I like. Everything is all positive and non aversive
Kikopup Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/kikopup
Dog Star Daily by Ian Dunbar: http://www.dogstardaily.com/

Puppy Nipping: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c77--cCHPyU&feature=player_embedded
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
@Puddin's Training Tips
thank you.
it was actually a trainer that told me to use the pepper.
i never hit or hurt my dog in anyway, ill admit there has been mornings when i get out of bed and he is instantly attacking my ankles that i have yelled at him, but normally we use the crate. when he is misbehaving severly we simpally walk him to the crate and put him in for about 5 minutes.
i will read the books and look up the sights you listed. thanks for the advice

@Curbside prophet
he was basicly a rescue pup. i would love to do this without a trainer but it may just be nessacary thank you for the link
 

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l have a rottie x mastiff who can be a nightmare too :)

the mouthing can be a problem for us too, although we did have a 3 week period where he didnt mouth at all! but after starting it up again he seems to be easing off now. perhaps go back to 'the bite stops here' again. i would suggest with the potty training that you start from the begining and use a high value treat every time he goes potty outside and have a party. branston too was all over the cats like a harbour shark, although he never hurt them the chasing was a nightmare so i bought a large gate and sectioned off my hallway so that he cannot get to the cats at all now full stop.

if he is crate trained, crate when you cant watch him, when hoovering, going to the bathroom, anything. i still crate branston if i go upstairs for more than 2 minutes as he too thinks he's a cat and will pounce around all over the furniture like one if my backs turned. i taught basic commands like you but it isnt enough. we walk 2 times a day for an hour each time now and that isnt enough! he needs mental stimulation too. ive started with the clicker, which branston pretty much ignores! but we have also started a training class which wore him out no end so maybe you could try that?
 
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@Puddin's Training Tips
thank you.
it was actually a trainer that told me to use the pepper.
Sigh. It make me very sad that a "trainer" would advise this when there are ways to curb biting without hurting your puppy.
I think it would be really good to read those books I mentioned even if you do use a trainer. If you get a trainer who doesn't practice at least some of the stuff in those books or a trainer who doesn't believe in the stuff in that book, then get another trainer.

As far as training class and long walks. Excercise extreme caution. A puppy that young is extremely susceptable to disease. Discuss this with your vet, but he probably should NOT be touching the ground outside until he has his full set of shots (4 months old). It is easy to pick up parvo ( a deadly disease), or all sorts of worms from the ground
Now if you have a yard and you have lived at that house for at least a year and you know that no unvaccinated dogs have been in the yard, then it is probably okay to be on the ground in your back yard. You have no control over what walks on the streets and on nature trails, etc..

Now here is the delima. Young puppies need lots of socialization with other dogs and other humans so they can be well rounded dogs. So when it comes to socializing, you have to weigh the danger of catching a disease, vs the danger of not being socialized.

The way around this is specialized classes made just for young puppies that emphasize positive socialization.
The people who run the class must be maticulous in cleaning. The floor should be cleaned with bleach or parvocide or chlorine (or something like that) right before class stars. All pet parents much carry their pups from their car to the class so they aren't tracking anything in. and the class should only have young pups. No adult dogs mixed in.

I went to a pupy class once where there were adult dogs (all who walked in from the outside) in there right before the puppy class and their was no cleaning before the puppies arrived. This is dangerous.

You can invite the neighbors over to visit your dog so he sees different people. Make sure they wash their hands before touching the pupp and make sure they calmly pet. No over-arousals.

Thanks for the rescuing the pup. Stay patient. Remember that he isn't trying to annoy you. And also remember that you have along way to go. Puppies are LOT of work. Stick with it. Get help (but positive help)

Oh. Just some medical advice
Be sure to check with the vet. The pup will be due certain shots at certain times before he is 4 months old
He should get his rabies shot at 4 months old.
This is extremely important. Get the puppy on heartworm prevention. It will cost about 5 to 10 dollars a month. But if you don't use it, you dog will get heartworms and the treatment is about one thousand dollars and the treatment will make your pup very sick so it's best to prevent. You have to give him the preventative every single month.

Now I don't know where you live. Some places, it's more important others. But with spring time here, just about every place has mosquitos - which is how they catch heartworms.

Potty Training
Some experts advise this formula for potty times.
The number of months the dog is, that is the number of hours the dog can hold it.
1 month old - 1 hour
2 months old - 2 hours
You can double the number at night when puppy is sleeping
So you pup need to go out (or go to a pad or newspaper, or piece of sod) every single hour.
Here a great vide on potty training.
 

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Everyone has given great advice. I just wanted to say that there's no way on earth a Lab/Rottie should be 200 lbs. 100 lbs at the most!
 

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@beverley- oh i love both breeds of dogs, my nabor had 3 mastives that were absolutly amazing dogs. i wish you the best of luck with yours.

@Puddin's Training Tips- yeah i know all about the parvo thing, 2 of the other pups had it so we were very causious with that stuff, and once again thanks for all the tips

@palmtree77- i was just saying because his father weighs in at almost 200 and even though his mother is smaller he is taking after his father. at 4 months old he stands about 2 1/2 feet tall and is roughly 3 feet 11 inches long. he weighs in at about 25-30 pounds now so i can only imagen what he will be at his peak lol
 

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That is crazy! Rottweilers at the most are supposed to be 130 pounds and Labs at the most are supposed to be 75 pounds. Even an oversized Lab is 100 pounds. Anyway, sorry to sidetrack the thread!
 

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Puddins>> I don't think that a pure positive method is the right approach for this person. I think a trainer thatnuses balanced methods may be the best choice in this case. I have never had luck with purely positive methods. I imagine what a beast my Izze would have been if I hadn't scolded her for undesirable behavior. My young one, Jo is a little easier, she stops what she is doing & doesn't do it again at the mere utterance of bad dog.

no ignore for me lol, I admit that I have swatted dogs in the past before i knew better, but now unused things like stare does, body blocking & posturing.
 

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Sounds like you have your hands full! I have a border collie and when we first brought him home he didn't really chew, but when he was about three months old he started to chew. I lost 3 phone chargers, the legs to our kitchen table and chairs, and also a bunch of power cords. The most important thing is to not scold the dog when you find something that he chewed. Unless you catch him in the act he will not know why you are scolding him. He is about two years now and has not chewed in about a year. He just seemed to grow out of it and now knows the difference between our things and his toys. It is also important to keep his toys fresh. Buy some new ones every now and then just to keep in interesting for him. I know its a frustrating time but try and stay positive! Good luck, hope this helps!
 

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That is crazy! Rottweilers at the most are supposed to be 130 pounds and Labs at the most are supposed to be 75 pounds. Even an oversized Lab is 100 pounds. Anyway, sorry to sidetrack the thread!
Often when a mixed breed dog is massivly larger than it should be it is because it's horribly fat or there is some breed in the mix that the owner isn't aware of.
 
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Puddins>> I don't think that a pure positive method is the right approach for this person.
I appreciate the input.
Well, actually when I mentioned positive only, I was really saying that positive punishment should never ever be used on a puppy - like yelling, swatting, etc.. It's just going to make the puppy either extremely timid or very aggressive (and you don't need an aggressive two hundred pound dog)
So if you are looking at the 4 quadrants, then yes in some cases, negative punishment is okay.
Leaving the room when the puppy nips would be negative punishment (a good thing goes away). I'm okay with that. But I would try positive reinforcement first - clicking and treating whenever the puppy doesn't nip at things that he normally nips at.

A lot of puppy issues can be solved by management. Keep shoes up high on a shelf, keep trashcans on top of the counter or inside the cupboard. That way the puppy never learns the bad habit of chewing or raiding the garbage.

You don't leave the garbage out then scold the puppy when he gets into it. That is setting the puppy up for failure and it is what some non experienced trainers will do.

So when I say positive only trainer, I mean find a trainer who doesn't believe in swatting, yanking, yelling, startling (can of pennies), hot sauce, pepper, etc... If you see a trainer using these methods it's a sure sign that they haven't studied Pavlov, Premack, Skinner, etc..

One main thing to remember also is that this pup was taken from his litter at 6 weeks old. He was taken away from his mom and siblings at too young of an age. If he doesn't nip, I'd be concerned that something was wrong with him.

And since this pup has already started life with a disadvantage (not being able to learn impulse control from his siblings and Mom), it's all the more important that the trainer be well qualified. Not just somone who knows how to push on a dog's butt to get him to sit :( (BTW, you don't need to touch a dog to teach him to sit :) )
 
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A couple more things about picking out a trainer that is going to help and not make the pup worse. This is not directed at dogdragoness because I have not observed your style. This is more info for the the OP.
Behaviorist Jean Donaldson says that a trainer can't execute a method incorrectly and say the method doesn't work. Example, a trainer treats before clicking then says that clicker training doesn't work.
Sadly their are some trainers who criticize positive reinforcement but they don't really know what it is about. They say that positive reinforcement means being the dogs friend and not setting boundaries and limitations and treating the dog as an equal. That is far from accurate.
Pet parents can set themselves up to be leaders without yelling, scaring, etc.. There is a difference in having the puppy look up to you and making the puppy scared of you.
Since your pup might be a special case, you will need more than a trainer with basic skills. Before paying a trainer, ask him or her some questions:
What is the difference between classical and operant conditioning
What are the 4 quadrants of operant conditioning
How does a clicker work
What is a reward marker?
What is a no reward marker?
If the trainer can't easily answer these questions, then he/she is not the right trainer for you.

Also Curbside Prophet posted a very good link for finding a trainer and the website covers some really good info as well. Here is one part of the website:
http://apdt.com/petowners/choose/myths.aspx
MYTH: That “positive reinforcement” training only works with small/happy/regular dogs, not tough/large/obstinate/stubborn dogs.
REALITY: Using positive reinforcement primarily to train animals is the norm among exotic animal and marine mammal trainers. If you can train a large predator such as a killer whale or a tiger through concentrating on rewarding behaviors, there is no reason you can’t do the same with your dog regardless of his breed. Moreover, as our knowledge of behavior is strengthened through research, the consensus is that using aversive training methods on fearful or aggressive dogs is more likely to lead to worse behaviors, whereas focusing on rewarding the animal and alleviating their fears and anxieties leads to more well-adjusted dogs and stronger human-animal relationships.

Also here is some info on Leadership. LIke I said, Leadership doesn't mean being scary.
https://docs.google.com/a/stubbypuddin.com/View?id=dfh2gdgv_11fqsg5hgp
http://www.stubbypuddin.com/2011/02/benevolent-leadership.html

Another thing about postive training. If one positive method doesn't work, then you can try another postive method. Well once again, if you are talking terminology, these are non-aversive, negative punishment methods. If the dog pulls, a good thing goes away -like the ability to keep going straight.
Example. If your dog pulls on leash you can try:
Be like a tree
Crazy Man
Tight slapping
Calling the dog back
Red Light Green Light
etc..

The same with Jumping up. There are several non-aversive ways to prevent it. So don't try one non-aversive method then assume you have to go straight to aversive.
I saw that jumping up was one of the issues for the OP. Here is a video that offers several ways to handle it:

More on potty training. If the dog won't potty outside, stay out there until he does. Take him for a long walk. Put him in the car and drive him to a park or nature trail (as long as he has all his shots). Dogs love to potty in new places especially where deer and rabbits have peed.
In her book "It's Me or the Dog" Victorial Stillwell dealt with a non-pottying puppy this way. She took the pup outside, when the pup didn't potty, she walked back in the house then walked back outside. The did this over and over again for 9 hours straight and then the puppy pottied. After that, the puppy went potty immediately.
Please do not punish the dog for pottying in the house. This will make him defensive and all it teaches him is not to potty in your presence.
Also some pups like a little bit of privacy. Try turning your head when taking him out.
 

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That makes sense.


I can attest to that, I had a dane/lab mix that was close to 200lbs & he wasn't fat lol.

Puddins>> I don't swat anymore or scruff esp with Jo, if I were to do that I would get like... Major calming signals. But I do want her to leave thongs when I say such as shoes & such. So I place a shoe in front of her while I hold a treat in the other, of course the first thing she always does is look at me, so when she took her attention from the shoe to me, I marked the command leave it & treated & praised her. But if she is doing or about for something I will yell 'ah ah!' but its not really used as an adversive, merely to get her attention, which works every time, I then call her to me, treat & praise & allow her to carry on with play. That's also how I taught come (thanks bigntime to: Wvasko, kblover, cracker, cranastic & many many others) I used the run away from het method, when she did we had a party, then she was allowed to resume play, nlsing about the yard or whatever. I also treated her for Checking in' with me & such & it works!!! Now I can even have her chase the guineas if they are roosting oj the cabin porches & she... Wait for it... COMES BACK every time on her own!!!! Yippppeeee! :D
 

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Get him what I call dino bones... They are real bones and look like someone cut the bone off some humans leg they are huge cost about ten bucks and will hold him for several days. He will chew it like he is crazy. My Rufus just got two new ones they cost me 20 bucks but I have only had 2 inches of carpet destroyed and a set of bows chewed off of one pair of shoes. and the shoes were my room mates fault as she did not keep them up where they belonged! Another option is go to a local butcher and ask him what he has in Large cow knuckles hooves or even smoked bones. All good for any puppy especially large breeds. I cleared it with my vet before I bought them for my rotty mix!

You can also order them from Tractor supply.
 

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Puddins>> I don't think that a pure positive method is the right approach for this person. I think a trainer thatnuses balanced methods may be the best choice in this case. I have never had luck with purely positive methods.
:confused: Do you know something about this situation that the rest of us don't ?

I've read and re-read the OP's post many times over, and I can't see any reason why a pure positive approach is not feasible, especially considering it's a 16 week puppy we're talking about.

... or are you just basing your opinion on the feeling that it hasn't worked for YOU ???
 

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Izze was about the same age when I realized that it want going to work with her I even had trainers not be able to do anything with her when she was younger she was a holy terror OMG I love her to prices but I never want another puppy like her, I don't think I could survive it lol.

I meant to say that perhaps pure pos isn't the best option lol sorry I was in a hurry when I wrote that.
 

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What will work best in your given situation is you do some training yourself first.

The dog isn't doing anything wrong really. He sensed weakness in the pack and he assumed the ALPHA position for the protection, guidance and generally for the better good of the pack, which is in this case the OP's family.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting and watching Cesar Millan's DVDs, especially Mastering the Leadership series.

And I am sure it will work with 100% positive reinforcement, just that the original poster needs to establish leadership of the pack/family as the puppy is very much indeed the ALPHA figure in his family. Of course he acts like that when he believes he is entitled to everything. And the reason he behaves well in public is because he is not at home. At home, at HIS home, more rather, he is the boss and as in nature, an ALPHA will always remind everyone around him about his status.

Please don't blame the dog, do yourself and everyone a favour and learn how to establish yourself as the ALPHA, through a CALM, ASSERTIVE ENERGY.
 
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