How much would you pay [going to a breeder?]

IN GENERAL you are not going to find reputable breeders in the paper. This isn't always the case, but it's a fairly accurate generalization.

Good breeders typically have waiting lists for some or all of their pet quality puppies, and while they MAY have pups available after their waiting list has been matched up, they're not terribly likely to, and if they do, they're more likely to place those puppies by referrals from other (good) breeders than by needing to advertise in the paper.

Any breeder worth giving any money for you will give you a pup who has had up to date worming and shots and (generally) a vet check. The worming and shots may have been done at home, but a vet check is for their protection as well as your own- that health certificate that they get will prove that the puppy left their hands in good condition.

A health guarantee should be for at least 2 years. It should NOT require you to return your dog in exchange for any guarantee to kick in, and there should be a signed contract which requires you to spay/neuter your pet at an appropriate age and return the puppy to the breeder if you ever cannot keep them, even if it is many years down the road. It also specifies the health guarantee that the breeder offers. More is better. (I *do* think a replacement puppy is a reasonable guarantee. Refund of the money for your puppy is also acceptable. Expecting them to pay vet bills past the cost of the puppy is great if it is in there, but I wouldn't expect it.)

I require my puppy people to fill out a questionaire (or be interviewed) before I let them come see puppies or mom. There's no point in giving out my address to someone who I definitely feel like is a bad fit for my breed or I get a 'creepy' vibe off of.

When you say DNA testing, what do you mean? Do you mean testing for a specific disorder (like PRA or CEA or MDR1) or 'DNA Profiled'. While I know good breeders who DNA profile everything routinely, it's not really the norm. AKC only requires it on 'frequently used sires' and dams who have more than 3 (I think) litters.) It's not necessarily a good or bad sign- it's just something to clarify.

Depending on the breed you want, the very best place to start generally is the local or national breed club.

If I were to bother with a breeder it would HAVE to have OFA testing relivent to the breed, and the pedigree must have a history of long lifespans, health, and good temperment.

If all I wanted was a pet I would rescue though.

The only added requirements if you change your choice to a show dog would be color patters and how closly it resembles the breed standard.

If I had the money I would be willing to spend up to $2,000 for a good dog (Hawkeye cost $1,000)

Sailorswife87 said:

Thanks dog star that was really helpful!

I was looking for another lab and it was an english lab and she said they did DNA on the mother and the dad was akc but they couldn't register the pups?

Click to expand...

They are not AKC registerable because the Dam isn't registered.

With Labrador Retrievers it is Important for both parents to be OFA hip rated as good or excellent. You will pay more for the pup now with OFA testing but not nearly as much as you will pay in pain medication and surgery when the dog gets older and starts suffering from hip dysplasia if the parents arn't tested.

The health of a dog CANNOT be judged by just looking at it. blood work and X-rays must be done as well.

Hello all,

I would say that I think that Inga is very on par. If all that you wish is a pet, please rescue a dog.

There are lab mix puppies in shelters or occasionally I'm sure that you can find a pure bred pup through a rescue.

However, you may want to reconsider a puppy. Many often find that adult dogs can bond just as deeply with you as a puppy.

If you are hell bent on getting a puppy (and this I totally understand) and you want to go with a breeder rather then a rescue, then go about it the "right" way.

For me personally, the whole point of paying the extra money for a puppy from a good breeder would be the benefits that you get from it:

1) health guarentee
2) pedigree
3) a friend and resources for the life of the dog (the breeder herself or himself)

Otherwise, why bother with getting a purebred dog in the first place?

You want a Lab puppy? Are you nuts or just a glutton for punishment?

Adopt. Contact a Lab Rescue organization near you. They really know the breed. And they'll have Labs of all ages. Most importantly, they can tell you the health and personality of every dog in their care.

They'll match you up with just the right dog. They'll probably have some puppies too if you're hellbent on losing your mind.

Click to expand...

If the OP wants to purchase from a breeder, that is his/her perogative. If you are happy with your rescue dog, that's awesome. But don't call someone a glutton for punishment for wanting a well bred dog & askign for help in finding a good breeder.

I have too much experience with rescue to give credability to anything you've said about rescue dogs. First, 99.9% of rescue purebreds are not from good breeders. It does happen that dogs from reputable sources will slip through the cracks on occasion, but this isn't very often. Most rescue dogs were orginally bought on impulse from a breeder that didn't screen the owner nor do any health or temperament testing on the dog's sire/dam. Labs are notorious for bad hips plus a plethora of other health concerns, just the way Beagles are. I use the Beagle analogy because due to the 100% incidence of health and/or behavioral/mental problems with rescued Beagles I've worked with, I no longer do breed rescue unless the situation is absolutely desperate & the dog has impeccable temperament. A poorly bred Beagle IS (not can be, *is*) a timebomb of genetic issues waiting to go off. The willy nilly breeding of amateurs has ruined the health of Beagles in the general population. I would assume the same applies to Labradors, who have been the #1 breed for at least a decade now. Rescue Labs are not going to be healthier than one purchased from a breeder. They can have genetic issues that have not surfaced yet, especially if buying a dog from a shelter/rescue that is under 2yrs.

When going to a reputable breeder, the OP can interact with the sire and/or dam of the pups and get a feel for the ethics & breeding philosophy of the breeder. When a family comes to my home for a pup, for instance, they have the opportunity to meet up to 3 generations of dogs in their pup's pedigree. They are shown health clearences not just for sire/dam but where it counts just as much - vertical pedigree. They have the opportunity to speak with the stud owner if I do not own him, plus a literal network of breeders who have contributed to that bloodline. That is not an exaggeration. Breeding is often times a concerted effort. Puppy buyers frequenting a reputable source are not asking for trouble, they're looking to avoid it. Probably 15-20% of families who have bought a pup from me have been to a certain area shelter run by an unscrupulous person. They do home checks, references, applications. They seem to be crossing their t's and dotting their i's. Yet they are infamous for both bringing in distemper in the area and adopting out dogs with aggressive temperaments. Not dominant dogs. Ones that have actually attacked the owners. People talk to you about dogs when you're a breeder, and I hear the sob stories. Plus can see it for myself with the rescue dogs from that place who are in the area. Again, I worked in rescue and you have to screen these people, especially the small private ones, as thoroughly as any breeder or you will be asking for trouble. I can go on and on and on with tales from rescue that would make your hair curl.

Anyway, I charge $800 for pet pups. My breed is relatively common but WELL BRED specimens are RARE. We also go in to show lines which increases my expenses. For that price the buyer gets a 3yr health guarantee, lifetime on hips/knees. They get a pup that has been extensively socialized during critical periods, that has been held and accomodated to the human touch from before they were even fully out of the birth canal There are points of socialization that, once closed, cannot be made up for when the dog is an adult. I know a great deal about my bloodline & each litter is bred very, very carefully so that we get as few problems as possible. I have not produced a major health or temperament issue to date, so that is another assurance the buyer has.

Advice to the OP: Look for breeders that OFA at least the hips. Tell them to give you the OFA #'s and look up in the database www.offa.org There is no excuse for no OFA'ing in a breed like Labs. Ask them about exercise induced collapse in their lines. If they have never heard about it or try to BS around it, RUN. They don't know the lesser known issues in their breed. Ask how they socialize pups. Do they use early neurological stimulation? If they do, that's a big bonus! ASK FOR REFERENCES!!! It's a major red flag if they get defensive over this question or tell you references are not necessary. You should be able to get at least 2 references from two seperate litters. Call them on the phone as well as e-mail. Just say you would like information on your pups such as what they are breeding for. This is a good one, because it will stump or cause to stumble someone who is not doing it right. Their answer does not have to be "for the show ring" or "to hunt" or "for pets". It should have something to do with how they are attempting to improve upon their kennel bloodlines and/or the breed in general.