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Ok so recently my husband and I went to the pound to pick out a family pet for us. We saw one dog with in our apartments allowance of weight (20lbs) there that was really cute turned out to be a Jack Russell (I bet you all guessed that though Lol) I've had some experience as a kid with smaller hyper dogs (all mixes if I'm not mistaken) but I don't think my husband really has. He was already fixed and was like the only dog to not bark up a storm when we were in there. He was already fixed, we are guessing around 3 years of age, really sweet and apparently pretty calm for a Jack Russell. The people at the pound said he was a turn in but had no vet records or even his name.We've been calling him Cid since we got him home and he's started to recognize that we are talking to him already. Once we got home you could tell he was defiantly owned before as he is for the most part good about going potty outside(even tries to bring me my slippers sometimes lol) though has had a couple of accidents. One was the first day he was here and the other was just today while we were only gone for a hour and had taken him out before leaving but he didn't potty.

My first question is in regards to telling when he actually has to go potty. We have a lot of cats in the area and being a hunting dog he wants to eat them all and is consistently wanting outside but we don't want to him to be outside too much right now because we can't afford prevention for worms after his vet visit (surprise surprise hes got Kennel cough and hookworms!). The meds and visit drained our pocket for the moment, we couldn't not get them for him that would just be cruel but we plan on getting the preventatives ASAP because the vet said here in GA if a dog isn't on them the dog has heartworms (sooo many mosquitoes)and in fact thought Cid had them because of the coughing noise he was making which as far as I'm told sounds very similar to kennel cough. I have no problem taking him out for long walks or keeping him entertained with his toys as you know the exercise is always good for me its just the fear of him getting heartworms that is stopping us from always taking him out right now so anyone know anything that might clue us in or ways to get him to start going potty when he goes outside instead of always hunting down the neighborhood cats when he should be going potty?

Second question is about his breed. We don't know if hes mix or not so I've got some pictures to post with this. Me and my husband have both commented that he kind of reminds us of a English Pittbull(I think I've got the right breed there) the way he stands so I was wondering if any of you out there have owned jack russells and might be able to tell me as I'm just curious about it

We've only had him a couple of days and he seems to have taken to us well enough and to the dog food we got for him (Pedigree specially for small dogs) both of us are strongly against giving him table scraps especially me because I had a dog my dad fed table scraps to all the time and eventually we had to get rid of her because she would jump up to where ever we were eating and with us sitting(even if we were holding it) there start eating it and would snarl and snap at us if we tried to stop her. The only time we ever gave Cid any "human" food was when we started giving him his meds because he wouldn't take (doesn't like people messing with his mouth) and all his treats at that point were hard so we wrapped them in chicken and I came home from work with soft treats and a can of wet dog food for the hookworm meds to be mixed in with his regular dog food.

Also whoever owned him before I don't think really gave him much if any obedience training (could be wrong) so any tips on that as well would be wonderful

Oh and another question I had (just remembered) was that we fill his bowl in the morning with his food(and hookworm meds) but he usually grazes on it threw out the day and then eats it all at night I was just wondering if this was normal or is he not eating enough, its been a long time since either me or my husband has owned a dog
 

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He actually looks like a full-blooded Jack Russell to me... the only vaguely pitty things I see are the ears but even then.

I would switch his food if I were you... Pedigree is kind of like McDonalds for dogs. It's full of fillers, allergens and preservatives that are actually harmful to his health. What brands are available to you at your local store? Look out for brands like Taste of the Wild, Wellness, Solid Gold, Natural Balance, Blue Buffalo, Timberwolf Organics, California Natural, Instinct, Canidae, Orijen, Innova... those are far more nutritious.

You don't have to keep him off people food altogether -- small amounts of certain foods can actually be beneficial to his health, and can be used as training treats. Just be careful not to feed them to him from the table; that will reinforce begging behaviour. He should be in another room while you guys eat for now, or lying on a mat/bed in the room, not sitting under the table waiting for food.
 

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Yes, he certainly looks like a purebred JRT to me. Cute little bugger.

Okay. I have a couple of comments. I don't want to get into the whole financial thing because believe me I understand...but if the vet thinks it's possible he has heartworm it is really important to get him tested to be sure. Putting a dog on preventative when it is possibly already infected with adult worms can be dangerous. As soon as you can manage it have him tested. But really, preventative, if he is clear of adults, works BACKWARDS by killing HW microfilaria circulating in the blood, so IF you can get him on HW prev. in the next month, say, having him outside during this time does not increase his risk. I hope that made sense...lol.

Cost wise, good food (ie food that does not have nasty fillers and that had decent meat product in it) works out to be less than the cheap stuff. It only "looks" that much more expensive. Calorie for calorie it's worth going with a better food. Cracker needed almost 6 cups of day of cheapo food to keep her weight up (she walks with me ALL day, so has high caloric needs) but only eats 2-2 1/2 cups perday of the Wellness. I would start giving him twenty minutes to eat. If he's not finished, take the food away, maybe use some kibble for training, but free feeding is not always a good idea for training and behaviour reasons. Put the food up and wait until the next meal time. He'll get that he needs to eat when you feed him in a day or so.

Training wise. I would do a couple of things, start working on the basics (sit, down, walking nicely on leash etc) but not overdo it while he settles in to the new house. Many rescues don't fully come out of their shell (for good or bad) for several months after being in a new home and you need to have the basics down and have established a good rapport with your boy so that any bumps in the road are easier to deal with. I also recommend, if you are not already doing so, that you crate him when you are not home. Many rescues have separation issues and getting him positively adjusted to crating will help prevent any housetraining or destruction accidents when you are not around.

Make sure he gets mental stimulation as well, training helps with this, clicker training is a great way to work with your extremely smart little guy. Check out www.clickertraining.com.
 

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He looks like a purebred Jack to me, but he could possibly stand to lose a couple of pounds. A better feed is not much more expensive (if at all) because you feed less of it. When he's over the hookworms and kennel cough, you may see a little more spunk.

Don't worry too much about people food. You don't want to feed enough table scraps to replace his balanced diet, but cheese or pieces of hot dog are useful training aids. You can feed a dog anything, and from the hand, as long as there are rules--i.e., the dog is offered food (normally in return for something, but the dog does not get to demand food.
 

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Okay. I have a couple of comments. I don't want to get into the whole financial thing because believe me I understand...but if the vet thinks it's possible he has heartworm it is really important to get him tested to be sure. Putting a dog on preventative when it is possibly already infected with adult worms can be dangerous. As soon as you can manage it have him tested. But really, preventative, if he is clear of adults, works BACKWARDS by killing HW microfilaria circulating in the blood, so IF you can get him on HW prev. in the next month, say, having him outside during this time does not increase his risk. I hope that made sense...lol.

Cost wise, good food (ie food that does not have nasty fillers and that had decent meat product in it) works out to be less than the cheap stuff. It only "looks" that much more expensive. Calorie for calorie it's worth going with a better food. Cracker needed almost 6 cups of day of cheapo food to keep her weight up (she walks with me ALL day, so has high caloric needs) but only eats 2-2 1/2 cups perday of the Wellness. I would start giving him twenty minutes to eat. If he's not finished, take the food away, maybe use some kibble for training, but free feeding is not always a good idea for training and behaviour reasons. Put the food up and wait until the next meal time. He'll get that he needs to eat when you feed him in a day or so.

Training wise. I would do a couple of things, start working on the basics (sit, down, walking nicely on leash etc) but not overdo it while he settles in to the new house. Many rescues don't fully come out of their shell (for good or bad) for several months after being in a new home and you need to have the basics down and have established a good rapport with your boy so that any bumps in the road are easier to deal with. I also recommend, if you are not already doing so, that you crate him when you are not home. Many rescues have separation issues and getting him positively adjusted to crating will help prevent any housetraining or destruction accidents when you are not around.

Make sure he gets mental stimulation as well, training helps with this, clicker training is a great way to work with your extremely smart little guy. Check out www.clickertraining.com.
Actually we did get him tested the vet was super surprised it wasn't heartworms because of the cough he had. We got any test the vet asked to do done because we want him to be healthy and I know that dogs from the pound have a tendency to turn up with problems.

We weren't sure on dog food as far as we knew it was good for him, its been a really long time since either of us has had a dog so we will probably try to look into a better food for him once he's done with this bag as I know we wouldn't feed ourselves something that had a ton of preservatives or fillers and Cid is part of our family and deserves the same :)

I've already noticed a little improvement in the way he walks on the leash. When we first got him he was everywhere all at once but this could also be because he was scoping out the area. We are trying to get him to learn sit (why he knows to bring my slippers but not sit is beyond me) but so far no go. Hes improving bit by bit as his health improves (kennel cough and hookworms I imagen don't feel pretty) and hes becoming more responsive to the things we are trying to do.

As for a crate it is most defiantly on our list of things we need to get after here soon. He has a check up in three weeks for the hookworms and to bring him up to date on his shots since we don't know anything about his previous owners and what they may have done or not done.

Clicker training is something we will look into too it sounds like a good way to train him since we don't know how he was trained before and he defiantly is a pretty smart little dog who loves to play. I've been trying to play with him inside as much as possible since right now we can't take him out as much as we would like to for fear of him getting heartworms till we get him on meds for that which we will hopefully be able to afford in the next week or so.
 

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Thanks for clarifying that. Good for you, you guys are doing great.

So now some clarifying on my part:
If you are going to get the HW prev. in the next couple of weeks you CAN take him outside NOW. The preventative is kindof a misnomer as what it does is kill any microfilaria in the bloodstream (that's the HW larvae stage, the one that comes from the mosquito) and is effective for exposure up to a month old.

For example.
Here in Ontario, mosquito season starts in may. The HW larvae in the mosquito requires a constant of 13 degrees C to survive for "transfer" and we are well into the mid to late teens in May. But we don't start HW preventative until JUNE 1, because it works BACKWARDS and continue to the usage until Novemember, even though the mean temp is below 13 C in November..the meds are actually killing anything the dog picked up in October.

Clear as mud eh? LOL. I think in the southern states where HW is year round (because of temperatures) the understanding of how the meds work is less clear because you don't need to think about it as a seasonal thing, like we do, instead using preventative year round.

So, enjoy the spring weather. Get outside and have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks for clarifying that. Good for you, you guys are doing great.

So now some clarifying on my part:
If you are going to get the HW prev. in the next couple of weeks you CAN take him outside NOW. The preventative is kindof a misnomer as what it does is kill any microfilaria in the bloodstream (that's the HW larvae stage, the one that comes from the mosquito) and is effective for exposure up to a month old.

For example.
Here in Ontario, mosquito season starts in may. The HW larvae in the mosquito requires a constant of 13 degrees C to survive for "transfer" and we are well into the mid to late teens in May. But we don't start HW preventative until JUNE 1, because it works BACKWARDS and continue to the usage until Novemember, even though the mean temp is below 13 C in November..the meds are actually killing anything the dog picked up in October.

Clear as mud eh? LOL. I think in the southern states where HW is year round (because of temperatures) the understanding of how the meds work is less clear because you don't need to think about it as a seasonal thing, like we do, instead using preventative year round.

So, enjoy the spring weather. Get outside and have fun.
Yup defiantly clear as mud. I had no clue how they worked and I have no clue how fast they grow. See its been reaching like 100 degrees outside(not sure how that translates into Celsius) and I didn't know if maybe that meant the larvae would grow faster or not. Theres still lots of stuff to learn for us since its been so long but I'm looking forward to it.

He looks like a purebred Jack to me, but he could possibly stand to lose a couple of pounds. A better feed is not much more expensive (if at all) because you feed less of it. When he's over the hookworms and kennel cough, you may see a little more spunk.

Don't worry too much about people food. You don't want to feed enough table scraps to replace his balanced diet, but cheese or pieces of hot dog are useful training aids. You can feed a dog anything, and from the hand, as long as there are rules--i.e., the dog is offered food (normally in return for something, but the dog does not get to demand food.
I wasn't sure on his weight at the vet he weighed in at 16.5 and I have no clue what normal weight for a JRT is. We are already seeing more spunk already I do believe today is the last day of his hookworm meds so I'm sure hes feeling better than he was when we got him :)

As a training aid I could see it being useful as its not something he would get all the time but people who feed their dogs from the table get me because of my past experience with the dog we had but had to give up because of her aggression over it. I think his previous owners might have done it at some point because he always watches us while we eat Im not sure if thats normal or if its considered begging

I would switch his food if I were you... Pedigree is kind of like McDonalds for dogs. It's full of fillers, allergens and preservatives that are actually harmful to his health. What brands are available to you at your local store? Look out for brands like Taste of the Wild, Wellness, Solid Gold, Natural Balance, Blue Buffalo, Timberwolf Organics, California Natural, Instinct, Canidae, Orijen, Innova... those are far more nutritious.
Will defiantly have to look into those as I don't really like the idea of him having a lot of extra stuff that isn't really very healthy for him in his food because I defiantly wouldn't want to be eating that for very long.

I'm not really sure what brands are carried (can't remember) around our area I'd have to go out and look again I have such a bad memory sometimes but I know the pet store has a couple isles devoted to dog food alone so I'm sure one of those is there :)
 

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You've gotten some pretty good advice, but I wanted to expand on Cracker's points regarding free-feeding and explain some of the why's. There's nothing inherently wrong or harmful, but it makes controlling his behavior more difficult.

1. It makes it much, much harder to housetrain. Feeding throughout the day basically means he needs to poop throughout the day. You mentioned that you weren't sure when he really needed to go vs. wanting to go outside to hunt; if you feed on a schedule, he will poop on a schedule. Keep a chart of meal times and elimination times the first week or so, and you'll know exactly when to take him out.
2. If he gets accustomed to being able to eat whenever he wants in the home, he will expect that outside of the home, too. That makes traveling, visiting friends, or even simple trips to the park, more difficult.
3. The best time to train a dog is before meals, as that's when they're most attentive and food motivated.
4. It helps to establish yourself as the source of food in the house. When you free feed, he's scavenging; when you are clearly the source of food, it creates a very positive association between you and the dog. Every family member should be given the chance to feed the dog, and should do it in the same manner each time: put the dog into a sit, and slowly set the bowl down (picking it up again if the dog reacts too quickly). The idea is to let him know you are supplying the food, and that he has to be calm and attentive before he gets fed. This sticky in the training forum explains it in more detail.

Last, I think you're absolutely right not to feed from the table. There's nothing wrong with feeding human food (provided it's safe for dogs), but it can't be at mealtimes or at the table. Human food serves as a great reward for good behavior, but you don't want him to get in the habit of thinking they can demand food from you and your guests whenever he wants.
 

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I wasn't sure on his weight at the vet he weighed in at 16.5 and I have no clue what normal weight for a JRT is. We are already seeing more spunk already I do believe today is the last day of his hookworm meds so I'm sure hes feeling better than he was when we got him :)
His weight may be fine, but I'm going by the pictures--which can be deceiving. There is really no standard weight for a JRT. There are many different lines and different types and they can range between 10 lbs. and 20 lbs..

This is what I think one should look like, but you need to go by the overall build. If your vet is anything like mine s/he will be thrilled that you asked her/his opinion on the subject. Overweight pets are a major peeve with our vet.

As a training aid I could see it being useful as its not something he would get all the time but people who feed their dogs from the table get me because of my past experience with the dog we had but had to give up because of her aggression over it. I think his previous owners might have done it at some point because he always watches us while we eat Im not sure if thats normal or if its considered begging
Begging at the table is not something that dogs need to be trained to do.

PS: your li'l stinker looks like he may be one of those short-legged Jacks (aka Irish Jacks). Yes?
 

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He looks like a purebred short-legged JRT. He looks just like mine but with somewhat different coloring.
Mine is below so you can see the resemblance
 

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I see you have some great advice above.

I have a question for you on the heartworm meds would your vet write out a prescription for you so you can order over the internet..?? The heartworm meds are much cheaper online...

Here is one that you need a prescription to order from..the tri-heart plus is $15 for 6 months..and free shipping (they will even call your vet for the script)
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/general.cfm?gid=262&ref=3382&subref=AA

And here is a site that you don't need a prescription for (they are cheap too,I actually order most of my stuff through them)..they are in australia that is why they don't need a script..
https://www.totalpetsupply.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/productcategory.dog
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
His weight may be fine, but I'm going by the pictures--which can be deceiving. There is really no standard weight for a JRT. There are many different lines and different types and they can range between 10 lbs. and 20 lbs..

This is what I think one should look like, but you need to go by the overall build. If your vet is anything like mine s/he will be thrilled that you asked her/his opinion on the subject. Overweight pets are a major peeve with our vet.
I will defiantly ask him when we see him again in three weeks I want my dog to be as healthy as possible and be around for as long as possible :)


Begging at the table is not something that dogs need to be trained to do. PS: your li'l stinker looks like he may be one of those short-legged Jacks (aka Irish Jacks). Yes?[/QUOTE said:
Lol I guess not and could be like I had said we had NOTHING on him from when his previous owners dropped him off. I think its super sad that someone dropped their pet off at the pound though I personally if I ever had to (good luck getting me to do it) give up a dog I'd probably take him to somewhere a little better than the pound like a shelter or rescue :/

I'm just kinda surprised that he really might be a purebred I don't think I've ever owned anything after my childhood GS that was purebred Lol

He looks like a purebred short-legged JRT. He looks just like mine but with somewhat different coloring.
Mine is below so you can see the resemblance
Defiantly can see the resemblance :)

You've gotten some pretty good advice, but I wanted to expand on Cracker's points regarding free-feeding and explain some of the why's. There's nothing inherently wrong or harmful, but it makes controlling his behavior more difficult.

1. It makes it much, much harder to housetrain. Feeding throughout the day basically means he needs to poop throughout the day. You mentioned that you weren't sure when he really needed to go vs. wanting to go outside to hunt; if you feed on a schedule, he will poop on a schedule. Keep a chart of meal times and elimination times the first week or so, and you'll know exactly when to take him out.
2. If he gets accustomed to being able to eat whenever he wants in the home, he will expect that outside of the home, too. That makes traveling, visiting friends, or even simple trips to the park, more difficult.
3. The best time to train a dog is before meals, as that's when they're most attentive and food motivated.
4. It helps to establish yourself as the source of food in the house. When you free feed, he's scavenging; when you are clearly the source of food, it creates a very positive association between you and the dog. Every family member should be given the chance to feed the dog, and should do it in the same manner each time: put the dog into a sit, and slowly set the bowl down (picking it up again if the dog reacts too quickly). The idea is to let him know you are supplying the food, and that he has to be calm and attentive before he gets fed. This sticky in the training forum explains it in more detail.

Last, I think you're absolutely right not to feed from the table. There's nothing wrong with feeding human food (provided it's safe for dogs), but it can't be at mealtimes or at the table. Human food serves as a great reward for good behavior, but you don't want him to get in the habit of thinking they can demand food from you and your guests whenever he wants.
So if we started doing this would it help with the fact that he has yet again gone potty in the house. This time he was previously outside with my husband for four hours and we had to leave for 20 mins to pay a bill and come back to him having peed on the floor and pooped on our bed. I know a crate might help with this but right now I don't think we can afford one ATM. I really don't see why he keeps doing this when we both leave. Normally one of us is here at all times as I work mornings and my husband works overnight. We were talking about regulating his food after he ate the last of his hookworm meds which is today.
 

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There are many reasons why the dog may wait for you to go to "go". It could be he was punished for accidents in his previous home and learned that going with humans around is dangerous, he could have a mild case of separation anxiety (especially if you guys are normally around a LOT and he's unaccustomed to being alone in his new home), or it simply could be his schedule isn't set (discussed previously in the feeding topic here).
Does he go at all when you are with him outside? Or does he wait to be "alone" (like going behind the bush out of sight)?
Even if you can't afford a crate right now (check craig's list or recycling sites for inexpensive ones) you should probably find a way to restrict his freedom in the house until then.

Back to heartworms. 13C is 55F.
The life cycle goes like this:
Mature heartworm is in heart of animal, produces stage one larvae which circulate through the blood stream. Mosquito bites infected dog, ingests stage one larvae and goes and bites another, uninfected dog, while feeding it infects the new host with the larvae. It takes about six months for the larvae (microfilaria) to mature to adult in the heart of the new host dog and become able to produce more larvae. Over time the heart becomes congested with multiple worms, causing congestive heart failure. HW preventive meds help to kill the larvae already circulating in the system, stopping the multiplication of adults. If there has already been a significant amount of time passed without treatment the adult load needs to be treated with more serious drugs and at the right levels to avoid having the dead adults being swept through the system in clots and causing strokes. This is why the preventative is so important.

So, whether it is a 100 F or 55 F does not affect how fast they grow or anything else, but if the temperature is below 55F consistently the larvae cannot live for long in the mosquito, the low temp kills them.

Since the meds do not PREVENT infection, but deal with new ones already in the system, it is okay for your dog to go outside as long as your meds are started within a month or so of possible exposure. Plus if your house is over 55F inside he can still be exposed and bitten if you get skeeters in the house.

Buying meds online can be cheaper, but definitely go with the one that needs the prescription and check out the site before buying...there are many fakes out there.
 

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He is Jack Russell all the way --- and very cute!

I agree about the Dog Food though, Pedigree has alot of Fillers and you & your dog will benefit from a better quality --- I feed my guy Blue Buffalo - available at Petsmart & Petco - awesome ingredients --- check it out -- www.bluebuff.com -- and everyone is right - they don't need as much as the Dog Foods that have all the fillers.

Don't be afraid to give table scraps - although I don't like the way that sounds - table scraps --- dogs can't tolerate all human food -- the best foods that are easy on their stomach and good for them are Chicken, Beef, Fish, Veggies, Fruit, Cheese, Eggs, Sweet Potatoes, Pumpkin. NEVER give them chocolate, onions, grapes, raisens.

Yur pup will thrive and you will be very happy!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
There are many reasons why the dog may wait for you to go to "go". It could be he was punished for accidents in his previous home and learned that going with humans around is dangerous, he could have a mild case of separation anxiety (especially if you guys are normally around a LOT and he's unaccustomed to being alone in his new home), or it simply could be his schedule isn't set (discussed previously in the feeding topic here).
Does he go at all when you are with him outside? Or does he wait to be "alone" (like going behind the bush out of sight)?
Even if you can't afford a crate right now (check craig's list or recycling sites for inexpensive ones) you should probably find a way to restrict his freedom in the house until then.
I think its just that hes scared. One of my friends mentioned it to me and I hadn't even thought of that. One of us will be here at all times until we can afford a crate. I'm gonna search craiglist for one since they do have a lot of good stuff on the cheap cause people just wanna get rid of it :) As for going outside no he doesnt hide it. He goes pee all the time but its pooping that these last two days hes waited till we have left.He lost his access to the bedroom until we can trust him to not poop on our bed or in the room.

We did however find out today while cleaning up the mess that he is afraid of spray bottles because when my husband picked it up and started spraying it on the spot Cid ran away and wouldnt come back till he had put down the bottle so we think his previous owners spritzed him when he did something "Bad" like a cat. We are going to start regulating his food tomorrow since hes now gotten all his heartworm meds in and is just going on the kennel cough meds and we are hiding those in soft treats.

Back to heartworms. 13C is 55F.
The life cycle goes like this:
Mature heartworm is in heart of animal, produces stage one larvae which circulate through the blood stream. Mosquito bites infected dog, ingests stage one larvae and goes and bites another, uninfected dog, while feeding it infects the new host with the larvae. It takes about six months for the larvae (microfilaria) to mature to adult in the heart of the new host dog and become able to produce more larvae. Over time the heart becomes congested with multiple worms, causing congestive heart failure. HW preventive meds help to kill the larvae already circulating in the system, stopping the multiplication of adults. If there has already been a significant amount of time passed without treatment the adult load needs to be treated with more serious drugs and at the right levels to avoid having the dead adults being swept through the system in clots and causing strokes. This is why the preventative is so important.

So, whether it is a 100 F or 55 F does not affect how fast they grow or anything else, but if the temperature is below 55F consistently the larvae cannot live for long in the mosquito, the low temp kills them.

Since the meds do not PREVENT infection, but deal with new ones already in the system, it is okay for your dog to go outside as long as your meds are started within a month or so of possible exposure. Plus if your house is over 55F inside he can still be exposed and bitten if you get skeeters in the house.

Buying meds online can be cheaper, but definitely go with the one that needs the prescription and check out the site before buying...there are many fakes out there.
Ok I see what you mean about the heartworms and will probably end up looking into finding some sites that I could possibly pick some up from :) I had never had any clue how heartworms really worked since the last dog I owned was in middle school and I'm 22 already heh.

Is there anyway we can get him to stop scratching at the door? I wouldn't mind it so much if it was when he had to go pee but thats about the only time he doesn't do it. Like I just took him outside and he peed but now hes scratching at the door because I think he wants to bury his bone.

The one thing I am really glad of is that Cid seems to really like people though I think if a chair could pet him he would love them too lol.

He is Jack Russell all the way --- and very cute!

I agree about the Dog Food though, Pedigree has alot of Fillers and you & your dog will benefit from a better quality --- I feed my guy Blue Buffalo - available at Petsmart & Petco - awesome ingredients --- check it out -- www.bluebuff.com -- and everyone is right - they don't need as much as the Dog Foods that have all the fillers.

Don't be afraid to give table scraps - although I don't like the way that sounds - table scraps --- dogs can't tolerate all human food -- the best foods that are easy on their stomach and good for them are Chicken, Beef, Fish, Veggies, Fruit, Cheese, Eggs, Sweet Potatoes, Pumpkin. NEVER give them chocolate, onions, grapes, raisens.

Yur pup will thrive and you will be very happy!:)

I was wondering on which one to get I know a couple of people said they fed their dogs Wellness(I think thats what it was) but I'm up for all recommendations.

As for table scraps I'd probably just limit it to use while training him as I don't want him to do like one of my other dogs did after she was hooked on human food. Also adding to the list of things not to give them I had read it was bad to give them Avocados in a brochure thing at the vets that I read while we were waiting.

I see you have some great advice above.

I have a question for you on the heartworm meds would your vet write out a prescription for you so you can order over the internet..?? The heartworm meds are much cheaper online...

Here is one that you need a prescription to order from..the tri-heart plus is $15 for 6 months..and free shipping (they will even call your vet for the script)
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/general.cfm?gid=262&ref=3382&subref=AA

And here is a site that you don't need a prescription for (they are cheap too,I actually order most of my stuff through them)..they are in australia that is why they don't need a script..
https://www.totalpetsupply.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/productcategory.dog
Our vet wants to sell us Interceptor for our dog. I went to the second site that you gave the link to and it looks like for the price our vet wants to charge us for 6 months of it we can get 12 months of it. My question is how do you go about asking a vet for a script so you can buy it online for less cost to you as it would mean they would lose on money and while they might want to help animals I understand that they still need to make money to keep their clinic open.
 

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Our vet wants to sell us Interceptor for our dog. I went to the second site that you gave the link to and it looks like for the price our vet wants to charge us for 6 months of it we can get 12 months of it. My question is how do you go about asking a vet for a script so you can buy it online for less cost to you as it would mean they would lose on money and while they might want to help animals I understand that they still need to make money to keep their clinic open.
You just ask. If your vet refuses, consider finding a new vet. When I asked my vet for a scrip, he offered to match the online price. I strongly suspect he was still making a profit at that price. I have an inkling of the economics of operating a practice (especially in my area) and have no problem with the veterinarian making a living--even a damned nice one. But ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
 

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You just ask. If your vet refuses, consider finding a new vet. When I asked my vet for a scrip, he offered to match the online price. I strongly suspect he was still making a profit at that price. I have an inkling of the economics of operating a practice (especially in my area) and have no problem with the veterinarian making a living--even a damned nice one. But ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
Yeah defiantly if I can save some money on the meds that would be great so I will have to ask him.
 
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