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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I have a Frenchie about 10 months old now. I joined this forum for help on getting his potty training and biting under control. And thing is I live in the city so he's an apartment dog, without the yard accessible. So I'm also looking for tips on keeping my room (his room is here too but in my closet) smelling good and clean.
Looking forward to your feedback when I post!
 

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OH NO not a Frenchie..... top of my wish list in this life or my next life... I have no experience in dealing with apartment no yard or having a indoor dog potty area. What type of biting interaction are you seeing, and what have you tried up to this point are helpful. By 10 months old there you are now dealing with learned behaviors.

Would love to see some pictures of the naughty pup if you have the time :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yeah learned behaviors.. too bad.. just from people around me saying ”its ok he'll grow out of it” and he never did!

So in his space he has a potty which he uses.. but once I take him out of his space and hes in my or another room, he goes wherever he thinks is right. I later down the potty pad.. and when he goes, if he sees me approaching, he stops and bolts.. so it's hard to pick him up and put him on the potty pad for training. I wonder if I bought like a spray or sth I can put on the pad? Also the problem is when he's in my or another room and wants to go potty, I'm usually on my computer or doing something else so I can't constantly watch him and see where he's peeing.

another thing is, he still bites when we play.. though gently, sometimes too hard when hes energetic. I don't want him to bite, but I also want him to feel satisfied when we play.. and I dont ALWAYS want to have a toy to play with him.
So I'd appreciate advice on these two things. other than these he's great !
 

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He is so cute !! Since nothing has worked up to this point. I would make the extra effort to keep a toy in your pocket or close by when you play.. Most of the time people walk away (bite = end play and you leave) leave leave like out of the room leave... The other is not to get over excited in playing if that is what brings that level of bite interaction. Then there is the toy .. you want to get excited in your play then "bite this not me" bite this not me" and making the toy interesting that they want to tug on it.. and can use it for learning Take, hold, drop, get it, bring it. it's developing the skills between you two that will get yall communicating through any situation.

for the potty my rule for a new pup or even an older dog new to my home is that they don't have full access to my house.. They have a penned off/ baby gated area that is centralized in the house activity area.. So they always a part of what is going on. Only taken out when your going to go potty outside, going for a walk.. or right there supervision / playing and training in the house..

Do you have a set daily schedule? that i another way that they learn for potty training..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey
Sorry the my belated reply. Thanks for the help.

Well he naturally goes outside when I take him out. But for the rest of the evening, I'm in my room and he's in his area... he begs to get out of it, I let him out a play a little, I get back to my work and turn around to see him peeing on something... almost anything BUT the potty pad that I have laying out. Thing is I don't have time to supervise him all the time until he pees so it's missed opportunities to train him. I wonder if there is like some spray or sth that draws him to pee on the pad.. no idea!
 

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Try taking him outside for a quick potty and back inside (each time before you let him have some play time out of his pen) Not really sure how far you have to go.. The longest I have had to go is from a second floor apartment into the courtyard, through the laundry mat to an outdoor dog run.. Dogs were not allowed to potty anywhere except the apartment dog run. (was only temporary while waiting for housing) 3 large dogs and very flexible about learning different routines in different places, the foundation training needs to be there to support what you want them to learn to get there. Your little guy needs ya...

am sure there is a large, small dog, apartment dog, indoor potty station community, fb, pinterest, google search. Am sure they are all very successful with it.. Keep looking your sure to find the right system and that spray. I know there is a spray they put on the wee pads.. am sure I have heard of a product like that. Anything is possible..
 

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Hey
Sorry the my belated reply. Thanks for the help.

Well he naturally goes outside when I take him out. But for the rest of the evening, I'm in my room and he's in his area... he begs to get out of it, I let him out a play a little, I get back to my work and turn around to see him peeing on something... almost anything BUT the potty pad that I have laying out. Thing is I don't have time to supervise him all the time until he pees so it's missed opportunities to train him. I wonder if there is like some spray or sth that draws him to pee on the pad.. no idea!
Well... the obvious way to not have your dog peeing inside is to not train him to pee inside. The potty-pads have to go and you have to take the dog out on a schedule at first. After a while the dog will figure out how to tell that he he needs to go. You then need to be prepared to respond to that.

As for "biting": in puppies it's called mouthing. Think of it in a similar way in which human babies put everything in their mouth. Because their teeth are sharp it can cause scratches or bites but it's unlikely that a puppy will actually bite you because it wanted to bite you. It's much more likely that the dog is simply just learning how the world works and hasn't figured out how hard he can hold on yet.

The best and fastest way to stop a puppy from mouthing during play is to let him play with well socialized adult dogs. Dogs are miraculously good at socializing each other. A few plays a week with well adjusted older dogs will stop the mouthing. Prepare yourself, though. While your dog is going through this, he may get "corrected" by his playmate and that correction could sound like aggression. There is, however, a big difference in doggie body language between a snarl, a snap and a bite. An experienced dog owner will be able to tell you when it's going too far but for someone who hasn't seen the process before it can be startling. Protip: ONLY let your dog play with WELL SOCIALIZED dogs during this process. The best way to get yourself in that position is to take you dog to puppy training where the trainer uses a couple of adult dogs in the group.

I wouldn't initially advise you to let him play with dogs you randomly encounter on the street at this point. Start with a trainer. As an inexperienced owner you may still be in a position of not being able to read the other person's dog well enough to know if it's safe. Everyone thinks their dog is well behaved but you would be astonished to know how many people out there are completely clueless. I've even seen people whose dogs were demonstrably reactive/aggressive walking them off leash while the dog randomly charged other passing dogs, then to only hear the owner say, "he NEVER does that....." The point here is that some people are so clueless that you need to start off by avoiding every random encounter until YOU read the other person's dog an give it permission to approach yours. Especially a puppy with mouthing problems.

Eventually it *will* happen that your dog will engage in play with a random dog on the street. Maybe this will happen by accident or maybe because the other person's dog wasn't on a leash and ran up to you. If it happens then remain relaxed, watch for signs of tense body language and be prepared to intervene if necessary. In my experience it's better to remain relaxed and *literally* give the leash some slack so your dog learns not to be tense when another dog approaches it. If you get tense your dog will get tense. It's that simple.

If you don't trust it then turn and walk away. If the other dog does something that you think is aggressive then act on it without hesitation. Intervening usually does not involve more than stepping into the ring (getting in between the two dogs) and commanding "stop" or "sit" or some other command that they understand well. In some cases you may need to physically separate them so don't do this unless you're willing to risk a confrontation while you're trying to teach your dog how to avoid confrontation. Again, trainers control this process a lot better than you can with random encounters on the street. Protip: Until your dog is fully grown and over his mouthing only accept "random" encounters with dogs of comparable size to your own so if it does fly off the rails one or the other of the dogs will not be seriously injured by the confrontation.

Good luck.
 

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Well he naturally goes outside when I take him out. But for the rest of the evening, I'm in my room and he's in his area... he begs to get out of it, I let him out a play a little, I get back to my work and turn around to see him peeing on something
Him wanting out might be an indicator that he has to go pee and wants to go out. When he begs to come out, take him directly outside. If he pees outside, treat/praise him like crazy then take him back inside for some play time. Immediately after play time, take him outside again.

Sometimes dogs get confused by pee pads and they can't differentiate between "it's okay to go on this place, but not that place". And when they're young, even if they've learned not to pee in your house, they might still pee if you take them to someone else's house - they only know not to pee where you've taught him not to. It can take time for them to figure it out.

How often does he go? Take note of this and make sure you're taking him out well before that time period is up.
 
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