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You're going to want to look for resources on leash reactivity. A lot of them will discuss fearful dogs, but frustration can also cause very similar behavior and can be managed and improved with very similar techniques. Essentially, the dog gets frustrated very quickly when they can't immediately greet another dog they see and hear, and it gets channeled into lunging, barking, screaming, etc.

I have a frustrated greeter. He's not allowed to meet other dogs on walks at all. That lunging, barking, pulling behavior can easily create a dangerous situation for both dogs (especially so in your case, since the sad truth is that bully breeds and bully-looking breeds are often blamed for anything that goes wrong in dog-dog interactions). It can be alarming or rude to the other dog, who then 'defends' themselves, starting a fight. Or the reactive dog can get so amped up that they go from 'I want to say hi' to being so overwhelmed they snap and snark when they finally do get to meet the other dog. It's been much better for both of us to reframe leash walks as a time when you (try to) ignore other dogs, not interact with them.

Many leash-reactive dogs are better off-lead, because they can behave more naturally, but that doesn't mean they're going to be great with every dog. When a dog has a very effusive, pushy, physical play style, they don't tend to do well in mixed play groups of unknown dogs. It can come off as aggressive or bullying, especially if you know your dog will fixate on one dog even if they aren't a good match when it comes to play style. It's okay if your dog just isn't that great at being social with other dogs - if you're fulfilling her physical and mental needs otherwise, doggy social time isn't actually necessary for adult dogs. But if you're invested in getting her dog-dog social interaction, I'd stick to arranging meetups with friends or other locals who have dogs you know she interacts well with. Again, especially because society right now is primed to see bully-looking breeds as 'aggressive' and 'scary', which may put your dog in greater legal trouble if anything does happen, whether or not she actually instigates it.

For the leash reactivity in general, I'd start with Dr. Patricia McConnell's Feisty Fido, which is a very comprehensive booklet that goes over why dogs behave this way on lead and what you can do about it. It's also relatively cheap and easily accessible - it comes in an ebook format if you want to start reading right away. You can also check this thread on the forum. It's older, but still full of good resources for exactly this kind of issue. It's common and frustrating, but the earlier you start trying to deal with it, the faster and easier it'll be to get results. You want to try to avoid it becoming an ingrained habit.

The very basic things you can start doing right now is to practice behaviors her that will help her refocus on you. Start with something like 'watch me', where she has to turn and look at you, or sit and look at you. U-turns are also helpful for putting distance between you and a dog that's setting her off. Practice these a lot in the house, yard, or other low-distraction spaces using valuable rewards (could be food, praise, or a play session, whatever your dog finds awesome) until she's doing them automatically. You want it to basically be muscle memory, so when you do encounter another dog, she turns away from them on cue before she has a chance to think about whether or not she wants to. Breaking that focus on the reactivity trigger is a huge step forward in getting a handle on the behavior overall.
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