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Clicker charging issues

635 views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  con 
#1 ·
Hi all,

we’ve recently adopted a 3 month old German Shorthaired pointer who we are very keen to get trained well. We watched and read a lot about clicker training and decided we would like to go this route. We’ve been working at it twice a day for over a week now and we’re still not getting any sign that the clicker is charged. We click the clicker and Cola doesn’t even notice. During training, We’ve been clicking the clicker as soon as Cola has the kiblble we use in his mouth. Are we doing something wrong?

TIA
 
#2 ·
You click BEFORE you treat- when the dog does what you want,say 'yes' or click,and then give the treat. It's also called marker training.You use your sound or word to mark correct behavior and say 'food is coming'. Some dogs do better with a word.
 
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#3 ·
Some people believe that 'charging the clicker' is an unnecessary step. At least in some cases, anyway.

It might be easier for you to skip the charging and proceed directly to marking a simple behaviour such as sit, just for example.

So, in application. There are generally two methods which can be used to accomplish a sit. You could LURE your pup into a sit by holding the treat between thumb and forefinger and move it from his nose level to straight over his head and very slightly rearward (a fairly quick and continuous motion is helpful -- don't linger). This should cause the pup to sit. Or, you can CAPTURE a sit, which is when a sit occurs naturally during the course of time.

In either situation, the important part is to click or mark at the exact moment the dog's butt touches the ground .... THEN immediately give the treat, ideally while the dog is still sitting.
 
#4 ·
As mentioned, the "time line" is behavior - mark - reward. The behavior can be lured (using a treat to coax the puppy into position), captured (puppy does what you want on its own, so you reward it), or shaped (puppy is encouraged to do something by having small bits toward that behavior rewarded).

If you want free training resources, then Kikopup on YouTube is a good option. https://www.youtube.com/user/kikopup

If you want paid resources, the the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy is an online training school that offer a ton of learning opportunities. One of them is a self study class called FE110: Raising a Performance Puppy. https://www.fenzidogsportsacademy.com/index.php/courses/24 Don't let the performance bit scare you... its a good foundation for all puppies.
 
#5 ·
Does the clicker have a mini USB port? It may need to be charged...........
:p

Just teasing..... Yes, you are doing it wrong. Follow Leo's advice. Behavior, click (mark), reward.

You could try getting the dog's attention while sitting on the floor with a treat in hand. Click, if the dog looks toward you, treat. Continue, when this becomes reliable, try with a command for a behavior, any attempt by the dog, treat.......

I began training a whistle call back with my dog in my apartment. I'd blow the whistle, he'd look, treat. Soon, I could whistle, he would come to me, treat. Then I would blow whistle at random times, the dog would be doing his normal, but he would come to me, treat. I started to hide from him, whistle, he'd find me, treat. Then we moved outside, while on leash......I'd start the process again. This took many small steps, but today it is really fantastic. We frequent a large park with an open field for off leash romping. My dog has been out of my site rooting around in some bushes (mini schnauzer thing), whistle, out he comes on a dead run to me, sits, jackpot treat. At this point, the treat is play, vigorous pet or food. He doesn't know what is the treat. I will allow a maximum separation of about 200 meters before I will whistle for call back. He hits at 99+% on call back. Occasionally, I will need to whistle 2X.

I would think you could try this with a clicker and a little adaptation. Remember........ behavior, mark, reward.
 
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