Baby Puppy that Bites REALLY Hard

367 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by 3GSD4IPO, 3 d ago

3GSD4IPO

Discussion Starter · 18 d ago

My new working line German Shepherd puppy is really great. Confident. Curious. Fast learner. Observant.

She came to me with the warning that "the puppies in this litter bite.. and they bite HARD with real intentions" At 7.weeks old she had drawn blood on three people (not me!!) .

The breeder was spot on about this! Since this problem comes up somewhat frequently here I thought I would share how I am extinguishing the behavior when the bites are directed at me/my person.

First of all she wears a collar and a drag line. She can run faster than I can so it is there for safely. It is on in the house to help redirect her off the cats.

I use the line to keep her off my shoes and pants legs when walking. I do not want her grabbing my pants. It's cute now, but in two months it won't be.

I carry a toy with me (as well as food treats). When she starts to get bitey I simply do not allow her to get that close. I redirect her to a toy (this can be anything from a leaf to a stick to a bonafide dog toy) (we spend a lot of time outside). Sometimes the redirecting fails but I still do not let her get close enough to grab my clothing or person when walking.

She will also be playing inside while I am sitting in a chair. When she comes over to latch on (she gets 'a look') first I try redirecting her. It does not always work. If redirecting does not work I make coming in for the bite uncomfortable. I might grab her scruff and hold her back or even collar correct her. If she pulls toward me to bite that scruff hold might hurt enough to make her cry a very little.

The collar corrections or scruff hold are uncomfortable to her. This is not on the level of pinching her yo make her yelp. Her pulling towards me while I hold firmly might make her yip a little. It is discomfort I am looking for in this, not blatant pain!!

I add the words "no Bite!" The words are said clearly and sternly. Coupled with mild discomfort she usually redirects to the toy I have right there at the ready. When she goes to bite the toy I change my voice to happy and "up' and play with her with the toy. Sometimes I toss the toy away from me.

It has taken very little time for her to understand "no bite" and I now rarely even need to say it. She comes toward me looking like she is considering biting and you can see her change her mind. When that happens I immediately mark, praise and say "Good Choice!" and reward.. sometimes with food and sometimes with a toy.

I have also found the hard biting is coupled with her getting tired (she does this when over tired instead of zoomies).

When she starts to get bitey I crate her and she usually crashes.

That is how I am handling a hard biting puppy who just turned 9 weeks old today.

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storyist

· #2 · 18 d ago

The things that stick most in my memory about any of my dogs are the ones that made me laugh. When my darling Schara was a puppy she once came running up to me as I sat at the computer, bit me hard on the thigh, whirled and ran off as fast as she could go. It hurt and later proved to have marked my thigh through my jeans but didn't break the skin, yet the way she did it with such joy had me biting my lips to keep from laughing out loud. I didn't go after her but sat there lecturing myself on how I had to stop behavior like that no matter how cute and funny and that she'd probably do it again soon if I gave her the chance.

Sure enough, she came zooming back for another try before long. I managed to grab her, lifted her front end right off the ground, took hold of neck scruff on each side of her face, gave her a hard shake and nasty "No" before letting her down. It didn't stop all puppy biting on the spot but it did stop that particular game. I know those kind of corrections have gone out of style, but done right they sure are effective, and I'm still not against using them on tough-minded breeds like my Rotties and your GSDs.

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3GSD4IPO

Discussion Starter · #3 · 18 d ago

I know those kind of corrections have gone out of style, but done right they sure are effective, and I'm still not against using them on tough-minded breeds like my Rotties and your GSDs.

Isn't that a shame! I thought the object of dog training was to have a goal of a well trained, happy, solid citizen dog that could live well with it's human counterparts!

Effective training used to attain that goal shouldn't be a trend or "out of favor." It should be embraced along with all the other tools at our disposal to attain that goal effectively and (dare I say it) efficiently.

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storyist

· #4 · 18 d ago

Effective training used to attain that goal shouldn't be a trend or "out of favor." It should be embraced along with all the other tools at our disposal to attain that goal effectively and (dare I say it) efficiently.

Well, in all honesty the positive trainers' methods do work too. The problem for me is reverting to what I've known and used for years is easier than employing new and different. Can't argue efficiency of what I haven't tried, and some of the newer things I have tried do work a treat. I'm kind of caught in the middle, and at my age there's not much doubt I'll finish out my years that way. Gibbs is my last puppy, and he's 2 now.

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3GSD4IPO

Discussion Starter · #5 · 17 d ago

storyist said:
Well, in all honesty the positive trainers' methods do work too. The problem for me is reverting to what I've known and used for years is easier than employing new and different. Can't argue efficiency of what I haven't tried, and some of the newer things I have tried do work a treat. I'm kind of caught in the middle, and at my age there's not much doubt I'll finish out my years that way. Gibbs is my last puppy, and he's 2 now.

I do not deny the benefits of positive training. I use those methods extensively!

My point is that no single method should be the holy grail of dog training such that all other methods are considered "wrong" or "cruel."

When minds are closed to other methods, be it closed to positive or closed to corrections, the dog suffers.

I believe this current puppy is my last one as well.

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mustluvdogs66

· #6 · 17 d ago

Hi, CPDT-KA here. I’m curious if there was a reason they sold the pups too young? Bite inhibition is best learned by Mom & siblings until they are at least 8 weeks old. A professional breeder would never sell their pups that young. Im sorry this happened.
Please be very careful with scruffing, collar corrections and making her yelp . You’re doing one of two things - either making her fear you (instead of trusting you) or making her frustrated and it could backfire once she’s had enough.
Putting her in the crate for a nap is a great idea. Pups bite when they are tired, bored or overstimulated. Also always have toys ready in your hands to redirect her. This takes time. Be consistent and keep with the same method.
Make sure no one in your family ever uses their hands to play or wrestle with her. Then your hands become a toy / target.
Best of luck. It does get easier.

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3GSD4IPO

Discussion Starter · #7 · 17 d ago (Edited)

mustluvdogs66 said:
Hi, CPDT-KA here. I’m curious if there was a reason they sold the pups too young? Bite inhibition is best learned by Mom & siblings until they are at least 8 weeks old. A professional breeder would never sell their pups that young. Im sorry this happened.
Please be very careful with scruffing, collar corrections and making her yelp . You’re doing one of two things - either making her fear you (instead of trusting you) or making her frustrated and it could backfire once she’s had enough.
Putting her in the crate for a nap is a great idea. Pups bite when they are tired, bored or overstimulated. Also always have toys ready in your hands to redirect her. This takes time. Be consistent and keep with the same method.
Make sure no one in your family ever uses their hands to play or wrestle with her. Then your hands become a toy / target.
Best of luck. It does get easier.

This is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable breeders in the country! I am not worried about the hard biting.. and the puppy was NOT separated from Mom and siblings too young. The entire litter bites unusually hard.

I am well versed in redirecting to toys. That happens. She is not frustrated.. she is corrected then redirected and play continues. This is an extremely EXTREMELY well bred working line dog. The dam is a half brother to my 6 year old competition dog who is from the same breeder and he is exceptional as well as extremely well bred.

For a female this puppy is showing exceptional pack drive to me even when running around with my adult dog (females tend to be more independent).

Quite honestly this puppy is showing traits at this age (9+ weeks) that point to her being an exceptional dog. In every way. She is sleeping at my feet now.

She just bites hard. She is learning that it is OK to bite hard, just not to bite me hard!

No other humans live here. No worries about people doing inappropriate behaviors with my dogs.

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Uncle Foster

· #8 · 3 d ago (Edited)

I would disagree with 7 weeks not being to young to separate from mom and littermates.

Hereś what the folks at Cornell Universit College of Veterinary Medicine have to say on the subject.
The ideal window is between 8 and 12-weeks-old.

How long should puppies stay with their mother?

The ideal window is between 8 and 12-weeks-old. You did your research and found the puppy that’s right for you. They are healthy and adorable, and you want to bring them home as soon as you possibly can. However, the time your puppy spends with their mother and siblings is critical for...

www.vet.cornell.edu

.

A little further in the article..
One of the most important skills that puppies learn through play is bite inhibition and not chomping down too hard. As puppies play, they frequently grab their siblings’ and mother’s legs, tails, and even faces. If a puppy bites too hard, the other will cry out, signaling that the bite was too rough. Moms will do the same thing or may gently correct the puppies for getting too rough. This is a critical lesson to learn before heading out into the world, as other dogs will be far less tolerant of inappropriate puppy play than Mom! Biting is also a common problem behavior that can land a dog in a shelter (or worse) later in life.

Uncle Foster

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DaySleepers

· #9 · 3 d ago

I took 3GSD's comment about the puppy drawing blood on three people by 7 weeks to mean it happened at the breeder's, not that the puppy was home with them at that age. But I could be wrong.

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3GSD4IPO

Discussion Starter · #10 · 3 d ago

DaySleepers said:
I took 3GSD's comment about the puppy drawing blood on three people by 7 weeks to mean it happened at the breeder's, not that the puppy was home with them at that age. But I could be wrong.

YES!!! THIS!! They bit the Breeder when she spent time in the pen with them playing with them!!
FWIW I did NOT bring the puppy home too young. Also FWIW the other puppies from this litter bite hard too. Those of us who got puppies from this litter are all in contact with each other. Two of us do "dog sport" (IGP formerly IPO formerly Schutzhund). We both have puppies that no longer bite US hard because we redirected as well as made biting us uncomfortable for the puppy. The others... well they are a bit of Satan's spawn. HaHa! They continue to draw blood.

Meanwhile, my puppy is just great. I went to a training seminar over the weekend that included 3 nights in a motel. My older dog is all up for the Motel thing.. but a 10 week old puppy?? She was GREAT! I had her crate in the motel with me and another crate to travel in next to my adult dog's crate in the truck. The puppy even got to work with this top trainer and the trainer said to me, "Looks like you got another really great one here!" (This same world level competitor and trainer offered to buy my older dog last year but I said No; he's my dog..). I feel so blessed.

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