I would like to take credit for the techniques listed within, however, I would be remiss if I did not mention Karen Pryor or Dr. Ian Dunbar as propagators for these methods…at least for me they were. This is one method among many to help teach loose leash walking. For the visual learners, I’ve included a link to Karen Pryor’s video on loose leash walking. To those of you who pay the 5 bucks to view the video, my attempt is to make this thread a companion guide, as many of the same techniques and steps follow along with the video. Let me also state that I have no affiliation to the website linked, nor do I make any money for promoting it. However, if Karen Pryor would like to send me a check for each referral, I’d gladly accept it.
ClickFlicks -- Loose Leash Walking :: Dog training videos for download from Karen Pryor Clickertraining
Let’s see how complicated I can make these simple techniques…
What do I need? You’ll need a flat collar, 6 ft. leash, a treat bag (optional), a bridge word, and a positive attitude.
What’s a “bridge” word? A bridge word is the connection between a behavior and the dog’s reward, signaling a reward is coming. Bridge words help to wean the dog off food, teach the dog to focus on you rather than the treat, and improve your timing. It needs to be short, distinct, and enthusiastic. For this example, I would suggest using a word like YES!, and will simply state BT for “bridge and treat”. You could use a clicker for your bridge, but as critical as teaching loose leash walking is, let’s keep it simple and our hands free by using a bridge word instead.
Tip #1: Don’t feed your dog before the walk…feed the dog on the walk – a hungry dog is an attentive dog. Bring great food (stinkier the better) as well as his normal meal – you are competing with the environment!
What are you competing with? Other dogs, fire hydrants, squirrels (Elsa’s favorite), kids, trash, the rustle of leaves, the whisper of the wind…the list can go on and on, therefore, when you are first teaching these techniques, your rewards (food) needs to be of high value to your dog. Kibble may be enough for some dogs, but for those especially non-food-motivated pups, stinkier is a must.
Why do dogs pull? Dogs pull because they can. What we seem to forget as humans is that a dog has a separate agenda different than our own. We don’t want our dog to pull, it can hurt their necks, but pulling gets the dog where it wants to go…there in lies the problem and we have to distract them from their agenda with our secret weapon, food (the reinforcer). If we can teach the dog that pulling gets no reward, but walking nicely can…viola, you can make it out the door.
Will I always have to use reinforcers? NO! At first it may seem so, because you need to, but as your dog progresses, rewards will be offered variably, randomly, eventually hidden and faded. Some dogs can enjoy walking so much that the walk alone can be a reinforcer.
How should my dog be acting before we start on the walk? Before attaching the leash, your dog must be sitting and patient. A round of fetch before walking may be needed to burn off excitable energy. If you don’t have time for this, a simple 6 ft. leash may be enough if attached to the collar and looped under your dog’s belly and crossed over the top of his back…a leash made no-pull-harness. Gentle Leader’s Halter collar or Easy Walk harness are also alternatives to prevent your dog from practicing pulling. Always consult with a professional on how to use these aids correctly.
Where to start? Start in a quiet setting free from distractions. Start with short intervals, and start with fun in mind. Most people will probably start inside their own home.
Step 1: With your dog attached to leash and sitting, stand facing your pup. Back-up and encourage your dog to follow by offering a treat every couple of steps. Keep the leash loose and offer rewards for the loose leash. We all know that dogs like to chase, so the backwards motion helps to keep their attention. I would recommend practicing Step 1 for a few days before moving on to Step 2, and time rewards such that the leash is always loose.
Tip #2: Don’t be penny-pinching with the rewards in the beginning. The rapid fire rewarding will help to keep your dog focused on the most importing thing in the world…you! This will also help to teach other behaviors later down the road.
Step 2: Now that your dog has begun to follow you easily, begin walking forward.
Tip #3: Reinforce the side you want your dog to walk on by offering treats only to that side…for this example I’ll choose left. This means keeping your free hand (left) at your side and holding the leash with your right hand. If you were to offer treats with your right hand while your dog is on your left, it will cause your dog to cross in front of you…that’s a no no, and it could be a hard habit to break.
Tip #4: Keep your leash short enough that you can reach out and touch the dog (about 2-3’ long). It may help to knot the leash where you want to keep your hand, so you don’t “reel in” the leash as the dog gets closer.
Now practice moving forward only if and when the leash is loose, and not before you have your dog’s attention. Take a few steps forward offering rewards as you did in Step 1. Repeat this 5-10 times then move to a new location, and build up on the number of steps required before reward, daily. Practice 2-3 sessions a day for no more than 10 minutes at a time.
What if my dog lags behind? You either don’t have a high interest food, poor timing, you’re not animated enough, or you’re in a too high distraction area.
But my dog still pulls, now what? Perfect! Now you have an opportunity to teach your dog that pulling never works. If your dog begins to pull during any point of a session, stop in your tracks. This is called “becoming a tree.” Keep your feet rooted into the ground and let your dog run into the end of the leash. Stand still until the leash becomes slack, then BT for attention and begin to walk again.
I don’t know CP, I’m a sycamore and my dog is still pulling, what now? I’ll ask a question back…what are you doing with your arms? Are your feet in place, but your arms are following the dog? You can be a better handler then that! If your dog continues to pull despite being a tree, gather the leash and hold it up against your waist, with both hands, to shorten up the line. This will reduce the freedom to roam and narrow down the area where he can find your attention again. BT when your dog comes back to you attentive and the leash is loose.
