[LMH]

I have a dominant Cane Corso who is actually very friendly. He never greets people or dogs in a mean way but once he starts playing with the dog he gets too rough and dominant. He wants to sit on them and the smaller they are the more intense and prey driven he seems.And he's a bully cause he is only like that with submissive ,or weaker energy dogs. If the dog is confident or dominant back to him it doesn't matter how small they are my dog will back off. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do. And other than that he's a great dog-haha. He's been through 4 obedience classes but I can't find anyone who can give me a step by step on what to do with this situation.

[wvasko]

Originally Posted by LMH

I have a dominant Cane Corso who is actually very friendly. He never greets people or dogs in a mean way but once he starts playing with the dog he gets too rough and dominant. He wants to sit on them and the smaller they are the more intense and prey driven he seems.And he's a bully cause he is only like that with submissive ,or weaker energy dogs. If the dog is confident or dominant back to him it doesn't matter how small they are my dog will back off. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do. And other than that he's a great dog-haha. He's been through 4 obedience classes but I can't find anyone who can give me a step by step on what to do with this situation.

I'm probably going to get beat up for this. If the dog has been to 4 obedience classes didn't anybody cover the obed. command-NO. You know the one command that means stop what your doing and do something different. A Cane Corso is a large dog and what is happening now is not going to get better and mentally each year he will get stronger also. You really didn't say what you do when this happens. I don't think a time out will help. I'm sure you will get some help here just be patient.

[Curbside Prophet]

There is no step by step process that fits all adolescent dogs because, socialization is so highly individual and environment driven. I'd highly recommend a certified professional evaluate your situation. You're calling it a dominance issue when it very well could be something else. In fact, unless your dog has a history with these no-confidence dogs, it's probably not a dominance issue at all, but rather, your dog's lacks understanding of normal social codes. He may act bullish because he doesn't know how else to act(no fault of the dog), or he has been inappropriately punished for natural behaviors and their transgressions(again, no fault of the dog). I'm not pointing fingers here, please don't misunderstand me. But if you truly want to know what to do and how to do it, with your dog, I recommend you hire a certified behaviorist who can actually see what's going on. She may have a different interpretation than yours, and can better suit a protocol to your needs.

http://www.iaabc.org/consultant_locator_dogs.htm

[Shaina]

I don't know if you are continuing to take your dog to the dog park, but please don't until you get this sorted out. My dog is one of those submissive dogs that just tucks tail and rolls over if a dog acts dominant toward her, and there's a dog at our dog park which acts similar to what you describe (backs off if the dog stands up for itself, otherwise keeps going). The last time I didn't leave upon his arrival this husky drew blood...not something you want your dog doing, especially since you have a bully breed.

Please understand I'm not trying to flame you or attack you in any way, and I realize this is a tough issue. This is just a perspective from the other side of the issue, as it were.

[LMH]

Thank you for all your responses. In obedience class he is very obedient so that doesn't really help anymore. I know I do need a behavior specialist. What I do when he does it is make him sit and lay down but his ears are still perked up and he doesn't calm down. People at the dog park tell me to keep bringing him so he can learn proper socialization. they say there dogs play like that too but because he's so big it looks 5 times scarier. I just can't find anyone by where I live to help out. I need someone to come and help me be more assertive and confident when he acts like that. I do all the basic things to show him I'm alpha. Like no walking ahead of me. Making him sit and wait before he gets his meal,disturbing him while he's sleeping and making him move out of my way when he's lying infornt of something I need. He's very respectful in all those cases. I do understand people at the dog park being nervous. I keep a leash on him to correct him when he does bully. I would hate to think he would hurt another dog. Does anyone have any ideas what I should be doing at the moments he behaves like that?

[Curbside Prophet]

Originally Posted by LMH

I keep a leash on him to correct him when he does bully. I would hate to think he would hurt another dog. Does anyone have any ideas what I should be doing at the moments he behaves like that?

What you'll need to do is remove your dog from the situation, every time. If he's acting inappropriately to you, do not entice him with the things he wants, and then punish him for acting as any poorly socialized dog would...all you'll do is sensitize the dog and exacerbate the situation by flooding him with other dogs and correcting him. So, IMO, the correct response is to completely remove your dog from the situation.

Where you'll need help is in reading your dog and understanding when he's above and below threshold. Socialization at this age will need to be systematic, slow, and with the right kind of dogs (bullet-proof dogs). To keep taking him into a situation where he'll rehearse poor behavior, and then correct him for that, is not going to solve your problem...in fact, it could make it worse. There's an emotional component you're over looking, outside of obedience, which needs to be addressed. And IMO, a certified behaviorist is better suited to address that.

[LMH]

Okay, that makes sense to not set him up for failure by taking him when I know he's not ready. That just makes me feel bad cause sometimes we go and he has a good time with no problems. Actually, I didn't take him for about 4 months one time and then when I took him back for the 1st time he was so good.He didn't bully anyone for about the first 3 visits. then it started up again. So I need to work with my authority with him at home first? then slowly introduce him to the dog park again? I need the dog whisperer-haha.I've worked so hard to socialize him, ever since he was 5 months. I thought he was going to be the scared submissive dog cause he never stood up for himself to other dogs. other dogs were always picking on him.

[Curbside Prophet]

Originally Posted by LMH

That just makes me feel bad cause sometimes we go and he has a good time with no problems. Actually, I didn't take him for about 4 months one time and then when I took him back for the 1st time he was so good.He didn't bully anyone for about the first 3 visits. then it started up again.

There's a book out by Leslie McDevitt called Control Unleashed. It's mostly written for agility dog owners, but there's a behavior chain called 'look at that', which I think you and your dog could benefit from. Taking your dog to the dog park, and working on this behavior chain before entering the dog park, may go a long way in improving your dog's attention to you and your cues. Dog training is about testing behavior, training behavior, and testing again...and of course, knowing when to end a test (over threshold). I can't fault you for wanting your dog to be social and not a bully. Certainly taking him to the park and seeing how he behaves is what anyone would do. But now that you know there's an issue, let's not continue testing, without some classical conditioning. 'Look at that' is classical conditioning - it works on the dog's emotional response to dogs.

So I need to work with my authority with him at home first?

That depends on what you mean by 'authority'. If that means imposing your will on the dog, no. We don't want or need the dog to act as if rank is in question, or deny the dog the things he wants. Yes, you do need to have him work for what he wants, but it should be cooperative between you and your dog. Being adversarial and forcing dogs to do things, IMO, only creates confusion in the dog. He may behave at the moment, but they don't learn much when under too much stress. Practicing NILIF religiously is a great start at working on impulse control.

I've worked so hard to socialize him, ever since he was 5 months. I thought he was going to be the scared submissive dog cause he never stood up for himself to other dogs. other dogs were always picking on him.

You probably did work hard at socializing your dog, but please don't blame yourself for the dog's behavior. That being said, don't blame the dog either for needing more work. Dogs, like us, are individuals, and their individuality should be understood, respected, and admired. Just because one dog is the perfect dog park dog and another isn't, does not necessarily mean the one dog's owner is a better owner than the other. You didn't raise a dog to be a bully, to the contrary. You just have a dog, that under certain circumstances, is a bully. Realizing that, and ignoring it, is the difference between a good owner and a bad one.

Should you avoid dog parks?, no, not necessarily. Should you seek professional help on reading your dog and getting a few exercises to work on before entering the dog park?, the prudent owner would. And if he has a few buddies that he gets along with, that you know well, he should continue to visit these friends, certainly.

[LMH]

Thanks for your response and the referal of that book. I will take a look at it. I walk him before we go to the park but I think I'll also walk him before we get in the gate cuz it's about a 20 min drive and he gets his second wind by the time we get there. I will keep looking for a behaviorist and get some more books on the issue. I just have to be patient and persistent. He really is a good dog under other circumstances. He even passed his good canine citizenship test-haha. Does anyone else have any issues with there dogs?

[Dogstar]

I have a similar issue with my corgi, and to be honest, although I've dealt with the problem and he hasn't done it in sevral years, I no longer take him to dog parks. While he enjoys them, it's really not fair to folks with more submissive or timid dogs.

[LMH]

Awe man, I don't want to hear that. I love going to the dog park. I love watching other dogs interact. I've been told by some that he just may not be a dog park type of dog but then i've been told by others that any dog can be properly socialized.Oh how did you deal with the problem? Was it just by not taking him anymore.

[Dogstar]

I know- it sucked not going to the dog park. (Then I got Wings, and she loved it, so it was good again. :P) But realistically, well.. all dogs*aren't* dog park dogs. Any dog can be properly socialized to be a normal, happy, well-adjusted pet. But goingto the dog park takes a VERY tolerant, VERY social dog, and frankly, a lot of the mastiff and working breeds (and herding breeds!) just aren't good bets for that type of chaotic environment.

We did a LOT of desensitizing to the presence of other dogs until I could call him off of ANYTHING, regardless of the temptation, regardless of the distance. And this is an ongoing thing (which I've gotten lazy about.) Additionally, I learned to read my dog a lot better- there's a specific pattern of behavior that starts it (young male dog (intact or neutered, usually an older puppy who has learned that adults aren't*always* up for play but isn't really clued into the the more subtle stufff) who plays with lots of pawslapping and shoving and ignores Indy's more subtle "I don't want to play this game" stuff (looking away, stifffening up through the back and shoulders, tail carraige changes, etc). (This was in a controlled playgroup, btw, not the dog park)- basically, I learned to call him when someone was bothering him and he learned tot rust that I wouldn't let them annoy him further.

I'd find some friends and do playgroups at people's houses for now.

If you still want to do th dog park, I'd just limit it- meet up with a friend with a compatible dog during slow hours when it's mostly deserted. Practice lots and lots and lots of recalls there during those times. Gradually, up the criteria- get more friends to show up, start going during slightly more populated times, etc.

Still, realistically, not all dogs are dog park dogs, regardless of socialization or training. The important thing is for YOU to be realistic - and I'd get a trainer to help here- in assessing your own dog and the potential risk he poses to others.

[wvasko]

(Still, realistically, not all dogs are dog park dogs, regardless of socialization or training. The important thing is for YOU to be realistic - and I'd get a trainer to help here- in assessing your own dog and the potential risk he poses to others.)

Just a curious thought, I wonder how many people don't even think about such things, before going to the local dog park. Living in the country I've never been in a dog park or wanted to because of possible problems with irresponsible dog owners. Do not get me wrong, I believe they are necessary. I was fortunate not to have need of one.